5 Commonly Overlooked Vehicle Maintenance Items

Brake fluid, auto transmission fluid, and coolant flushes, as well as cabin filter changes and valve adjustments, are all important services.

Without a doubt, the best way to maintain your car is to follow the manufacturer's suggested service schedule, but some people opt not to for various reasons, cost often being one of them: scheduled maintenance services can certainly be expensive. Generally when people think of routine maintenance for their vehicle, they only think of things like oil changes and air filters, so they see the rest of the maintenance service as an unnecessary expense. Unfortunately, looking at it this way means a number of important services never get performed. If you choose to maintain your car differently than the manufacturer recommends, make sure these five otherwise forgotten services get completed.

1. Brake fluid flush

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it attracts and absorbs moisture. Even in a sealed brake system, the brake fluid can absorb moisture from the surrounding environment, resulting in lowered boiling temperature of brake fluid, and introduces the possibility of rust and corrosion in the hydraulic brake system. Most manufacturers specify different intervals for brake fluid flushes. If your manufacturer doesn’t specify, or they specify more than several years between services, then we recommend having it done every three years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.

2. Automatic transmission fluid flush

In order to make their vehicles seem low maintenance, automotive manufacturers began selling cars with “lifetime transmission fluid” that never needed to be changed. If this sounds too good to be true, that’s because it is. Modern transmissions work harder than their predecessors and in tighter engine compartments with less ventilation, so their fluid still degrades over time. Cars with “lifetime transmission fluid” often experience an increased rate of transmission failures after 100,000 miles. If you want your transmission to go the distance, it’s suggested that you change the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles, give or take a few thousand miles.

3. Coolant flush

Just like automatic transmission fluid, coolant is often sold as another “lifetime fluid.” Once again, this is not entirely true. The coolant degrades over time with normal use, and the ph balance becomes less than ideal, which can cause the coolant to damage parts of the cooling system or engine. A good interval is to change the coolant every 40,000-60,000 miles. This should help keep the coolant ph level at a proper balance, which should keep your cooling system healthy.

4. Cabin air filter

The cabin air filter is responsible for filtering the air coming into the passenger compartment from outside the vehicle. Some vehicles use a simple particulate filter, which removes dust and pollen from the air; some use an activated charcoal filter which removes the same dust and pollen, but can also remove smells and pollutants. Replacement of these filters is usually inexpensive, and can greatly improve the quality of the air you’re breathing in the car, making them a worthwhile investment.

5. Valve adjustments

Despite most newer cars using automatically adjusting hydraulic valve lifters, there are still a large number of vehicles on the road that use mechanical valve lifters. These lifters require occasional clearance checks, and adjustments if necessary. Best case scenario: running valves too tight or too loose can cause reduced power and efficiency. Worst case scenario: the engine can suffer severe damage, such as a burned valve.

Although this list is not completely inclusive of all the services that are normally skipped over when they should be performed, it is a list of some of the most commonly overlooked services that can have a big impact on how your vehicle performs. It’s also a reminder to ensure these services are done on your vehicle should you choose to follow an alternative maintenance schedule or plan. Though of course, the best way to maintain your vehicle is still to follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule.

How to Clean Car Air Conditioner Filter and How Not to Do It

The air conditioner filter are one of the parts on the category of the filter which are mostly overlooked and are neglected because of their more popular and under the attention cousins like the fuel filter and air filter (which supply clean for the air-fuel mixture to the engine). However, if the air conditioner filter are no maintained and are not cared for, they can make your driving experience extremely unpleasant.

A dirty air conditioner filter will not only hinder the air conditioning systems of your car, it will also become a breeding ground for different germs and bacteria which will release unpleasant odors making your car smell like something similar to musk. The air conditioner filter may not be included in the key components of a vehicle but its importance is still that of one.

Reading this may have induced the thoughts of cleaning the air conditioner filter in your mind and it is a fairly simple job but if you do not know how to do it properly, then you can end up with an expense of buying a new air conditioner filter by damaging it during the cleaning process. Here, you will be educated on how to clean air conditioner filter of your car and what to avoid during its cleaning.

How to Clean Air Conditioner filter

In order to clean the air conditioner filter of your car, you will first need to remove them from your vehicle. The position of the air filter can vary from the company to company and car to car, so be sure to check the manual of your car in order to locate the position of the air conditioner filter. It is usually placed behind the dash board in most of the cars but check the manual of your car in order to find it. Its shape and size may vary depending on the manufacturers, but the general shape of the air conditioner filter is square with slotted bar in it. After locating the air conditioner filter, gently remove it from its holding and place it on the ground or on a work table.

You will need an air compressor or another source of blowing air with some degree of pressure like an electric blower. Gently hold the air filter and blow the air through it. Make sure to blow the air through every slot of the filter so that any dust hiding in any corner of the filter is flushed out. After thoroughly blowing the air through the filter, spray it with odor remover and germ killer spray. They usually come in the same product so buy one of them from the store. After spraying it, gently replace it and turn on the car to test the AC systems.

What Not to Do

During the cleaning process, do not use any cleaning accessories like cleaning brushes or anything like that. The air conditioner filter are one of the delicate parts of the AC system and can be damaged easily. Also avoid using any detergents. Do not wash with water in order to clean it. Washing with water has higher risks of damaging the air conditioner filter and the filter needs to be air dried without any other drying systems which can take a lot of your precious time.

Besides cleaning the filter, also clean the vents of the AC systems of your car with an AC cleaner so that you can get the most out of the air conditioning systems of your car

Eight Ways Real Men Take Care Of Their Cars

The holiday is over!

Only the best loved cars are the most excited today while others are waiting on the calendar checking for another long holiday. This means how well you take care of your car, so it responds to you.

Good masters are known from the appearance of their servants. From appearance to quality of work done to agility and instant bounce. Can you ‘categorically’ be called a good master, it does depend on these eight things.

Here are ways to take care of your car like a real adult giving every bit of TLC (tender, love and care);

1. At least once every month, you thoroughly give your car a good clean up

You don’t need to be told to wash your car but giving is a total make over once a month both inside and outside would do you a lots of good.

2. Change your oil regularly and only use reliable oil

If your car doesn't have fresh oil, dirt will build up and eventually kill your engine, which will cost thousands of dollars and your happiness.

So what’s the definition of regular, a school of thought suggest that you change your oil every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. And remember to use quality oil, preferably not dispensed oil you don’t know the brand nor are you sure of. A healthy car gives you less headache so don’t joke with this.

3. Check your tyre pressure monthly

Incorrect tyre pressure can lead to a ton of problems, including poor braking, instability, less gas mileage, and of course, a flat tire, so check your tyre pressure with a gauge. Also, rotate your tyres often to make sure that they wear evenly, making sure you get the most before replacing them.

4. Get your brake pads replaced regularly

Neglecting your brake pads will eventually lead to your brake rotors failing and you don’t want to deal with this. Before you feel this not your portion, the experts’ view is that you get your brake pads replaced every 25,000 miles.

5. Maintain your car's interior to keep its resale value high.

This doesn’t depend on how long you’ve been riding your car but rather on how well you’ve been. A dirty, unkept interior can lead to you losing money when you try to resell your car. There are car cleaning products that reinvigorates the outlook of your car all the time.

6. Change your air filters regularly

Your car isn't going to explode from a dirty air filter, but it's possible that leaving one can cause your engine to fail and damage your combustion chamber.

7. Prevent damage to your car by parking in the shade and using a window shade.

The same way you cannot roast yourself under a scorching sun so should your car be parked to experience the torturing heat? In addition to causing interior damage, UV rays from the sun can melt plastics, crack your dashboard, and cause fading on your paint job. It also isn't the most pleasant thing to sit in a scorching hot car, so for the sake of you and your butt, find some shade.

8. Ask an expert about car trouble when you're not sure yourself.

Every Wednesday is an opportunity for you to ask questions about your car and everything you need to know about automobiles.

Cars are just as complex as they are wonderful, and you shouldn't ever force your way into fixing a problem if you don't know exactly what's wrong. There are different brands of cars and different models, it’s an expert that can help guide you accurately.

If you need the right quality spare parts and accessories for your car, get it on www.autofactorng.com

Thank you for reading.

We hope you have a stress-less week!

6 Reasons Why your Car Won't Accelerate

The symptoms of a car not accelerating can be occur on many high mileage vehicles. A driver might not notice them in the usual driving but they become abundantly clear during the circumstances like driving up a hill or during the quick acceleration in a fast moving traffic. It is in those situations that the drivers will come to notice the obvious slow acceleration and the fact that the engine of their vehicle is struggling to keep up.

Some common causes of car won’t properly accelerate

This problem is common in vehicles with high mileage but there is no any serious or immediate concerns regarding the engine because there are some of the causes which should be checked first in order to locate this problem and possibly fix it as well. And below are some common causes:

1. Air flow meter clogged or malfunction

Air flow meter located and attached on the inlet air cleaner. And the function of air flow meter is to measure air mass that flowing into inlet air cleaner then sending the data to engine ECU to calculate the air fuel mixture. And some of the symptoms of Airflow meter malfunction is car wont accelerate.

2. Oxygen Sensor Malfunction

An Oxygen Sensor, is device whose function is to monitor the exhaust emissions of the vehicle so that it can analyze the air-fuel ratio going through the engine of that vehicle. To make the long story short, a car needs a proper amount of fuel in order for the fuel to burn properly in the combustion cylinders so that it may run smoothly and may accelerate as required. This sensor sends the information about the amount of fuel being used to the computer unit of the engine and if this sensor get damaged, then the engine of that vehicle will have no idea what ratio of air-fuel mixture to intake which may result in a fuel rich mixture. This can cause the slow acceleration of the vehicle even with the fuel pedal completely pressed making it unreliable when it’s needed.

3. Malfunction of TPS

Basic principle of throttle position sensor is to detect the throttle valve opening angle which controlled by accelerator pedal. Then the tps will send this data to the ECU. If the tps malfunction, the engine speed cannot control by accelerator pedal, engine speed will increase or decrease without any press or depress the pedal.

4. Dirty or Clogged Fuel Filters

A dirty or clogged fuel filter is another reason for the appearance of the symptoms of car not accelerating when required to do so. With a dirty fuel filter, the engine won’t be getting enough fuel which means that the vehicle won’t be going anywhere nor will it be giving the acceleration performance that it should. Replace it as soon as possible.

5. Clogged or Dirty Air Filters

Just like the fuel filter provides the engine with the clean fuel, the air filters provide the engine of a vehicle with clean to be used in the air-fuel mixture which will be sent to the combustion chambers to burn. If an air filter is clogged, then the engine won’t get the right air-fuel mixture resulting in decrepit and slow acceleration. Replace it as soon as possible.


6. The Timing Belt

This component is as it sounds. The timing belt is something like a VIP in the list key of components of an engine. If this belt is off even by 1 tooth, it may cause some pretty notable acceleration problems.

However the list of culprits does not end here. The culprits behind the slow acceleration may be a slipping clutch, the transmission system itself or an unexpected or unrelated problem which may surprise even the veterans in the mechanics.

Take the vehicle to a reliable mechanic and let him give it a full checkup. This will let that mechanic catch onto that problem and will let him deal with it.

A Guide to Car Leather Cleaning

  Leather often becomes grimy, sticky and tacky over time and with a few minutes of work you can make your seats look as good as new. There are several leather seat cleaning products on the market that you can buy to clean your interior. Any of these products can be used, but there is a simpler process that is safe and easy to do on your own with a few household items.

What You Need

The recommended process for cleaning your leather seats requires the use of a several items, many of which you may have lying around your house. You will need a spray bottle, Simple Green (a non-toxic, all natural cleaning product), some water, a clean towel and a green scratch scrub pad. With these tools you can clean your leather seats by following a simple process. One thing you should note is that you do not want to use harsh chemicals on your leather seats, because you could damage them.

The Cleaning Process

Before you begin you need to fill your spray bottle with 50% water and 50% Simple Green. It won’t hurt your seats to use 100% Simple Green, but it isn’t required. Liberally spray the mixture over your seats and wash them with your towel. This should remove nearly all of the dirt and dust on the seats and give them a nice shine.

If the seats still have some grime or dirt that can’t be removed then you can scrub the seats clean. When you perform this step you want to be aware that if you clean your seats too aggressively, you could potentially damage them. You want to spray your seats with the cleaning mixture, applying a liberal amount to the entirety of the seat. Lightly use the green scrub pad to clean the seat, using small amounts of pressure and scrubbing back and forth over the dirty spots. Repeat this process until all of the problem areas are cleaned. When finished you can dry the seats with a clean, dry towel.

Other Considerations

Cleaning leather is fairly straightforward, but if you’re worried you will damage your seats, you should have it taken into a shop for cleaning. Leather tends to be fairly durable and holds up well over time. As long as you use an all-natural (or leather) cleaning solution, you shouldn’t be able to do too much damage to your seats. Some off-the-shelf upholstery cleaners will require you to follow the directions that come with your purchase and in all cases these should be followed to the letter for the best results. Car leather washing is safe, easy and can be done at home with a little bit of time and effort.

10 Ways you are Killing your Car

The old mantra if you look after your car, your car will look after you certainly holds true. Car ownership is becoming more and more common with many households running 2 or more cars.

Sadly though few drivers are sympathetic to, or fully understand the way their car works. A little knowledge will keep your relationship with your car running smoothly!

Without realising it many drivers are actually damaging their car or at very least running up a hefty repair bill.

Here are the top 10 things people do every day completely oblivious to the consequences. Most of these points will at the very least hit us in our pockets in the near future.

How many are you guilty of?

1.) Oil changes and servicing – Engine oil is the vital component in your car. Some people will wrongly assume that if the car takes 5 litres of oil and they have topped up this year by 5 litres that there is no point in changing the oil. Oil degrades, and the reduction in oil level is due to the thinner high quality oil getting burned or just seeping out of the engine. The sludge, grime and metal particles build up in the residue so topping up is not the same as changing the oil. The oil level is dangerously low in over 70% of cars – check your oil levels today.

2.) Incorrect tire pressures  – cause additional heat to build up in the tires  due to the extra flexing. The car has to work harder reducing your fuel economy. With under inflated tires the handling becomes unpredictable at best. Braking is also significantly reduced.

3) Not allowing turbo to cool down – How many people with turbo driven engine drive it hard and then fail to allow the turbo to cool down properly? In Europe more and more production cars have turbos to meet emissions and power requirements. The turbo is spinning at between 100,000 rpm and 200,000 rpm and gets very hot, the moment you turn off the engine you starve it of fresh oil, unless your cars oil pump keeps running. The oil in the turbo gets fried and essentially leaves your turbo spinning with no lubrication. Your turbo will need replacing if this is your driving style.

4.) Driving hard on a cold engine! Don’t use higher engine RPMs when cold – until an engine is warm it will run rich. Your engine is most at risk from damage when cold, so putting undue stress on it by high revving will exponentially increase the damage done. The combustion process does not become efficient until the engine reaches its operating temperature. An inefficient burn leaves acids and other toxins th 874 at eat your engine. The oil also takes a short while to flow properly so ideally you would let the engine tick over for 3-10 seconds, then drive off at a steady pace keeping under 2-3000 rpm. Do not use the top half of the rev range until the engine reaches operating temperature. This applies as much to modern engines with catalytic convertors as it does on older engines. Don’t leave the engine idling to warm it up, just drive it (after giving it 30 seconds for the oil pressure to come up)!

5.) Short journeys – Just as driving off too quickly damages an engine so will doing short journeys. The problem with a short journey is that the engine never reaches its operating temperature. So for the reasons detailed in the driving off too quickly do not drive short distances. (Use the under 1 mile – walk philosophy!) The engine oil needs to reach its optimum viscosity to properly lubricate the main moving components in the engine. While cold the catalyst is unable to operate at peak efficiency thus reducing the life of your expensive catalyst.

Protect your car against the  rain this season

6.) Revving too high – The red line indicates the maximum permissible engine speed. At this point the engine is under enormous stress and the components are moving at their fastest speed. Slight imbalances in the engine are emphasised at high rpm and if you prolong the high rpm for a period of time you will more than likely throw a connecting rod through the sump (or worse). The older an engine is, the lower the red line should be. As an engine starts to produce most of its power across the middle third of its rev band there is little point exceeding this.

7.) Hand on gear stick – So many people do this but it can actually cause premature gear wear, especially if you wiggle the stick around. The stick is connected directly to the gearbox (in many cars) so the slightest pressure is transmitted to the gear selector. This is enough to cause wear and eventually your gearbox will start to grind and crunch as you change gear.

8.) Riding the clutch – Again keeping a foot on the clutch is enough to prevent it from fully engaging. The clutch plate will tend towards slip and will prematurely wear. Keeping the clutch depressed in traffic or at traffic lights is also a bad idea. Just put the car in neutral when you are stationary. When the clutch is depressed your are forcing the clutch against the release bearing. Eventually the release bearing will just give up having done 60,000 miles worth of pressure in just 10,000.

9.) Wrong gear selection – Nothing puts a strain on the engine like forcing it to pull the car in the wrong gear. Too high a gear strains the bottom end of the engine around the crank and con rods. Too low a gear will mean you are revving more than you need to so the top end of the engine around the valves, cams and lifters are working too hard.

10.) Driving a dirty car – This one is a little contentious but corrosion takes effect more easily on a car which is covered with a layer of dirt. A thorough clean each month and a coat of good quality wax (not polish) will do much to enhance the cars defence against corrosion.

Protect your car against the  rain this season

Source: Torque Cars

Can You Switch Between Regular and Synthetic Motor Oil?

If you have ever wondered if you can switch between regular and synthetic motor oil, you need to consider what type of oil works best for your engine.

Although most of today's new cars, trucks and SUV's have synthetic motor oil inside their engines, there are still a few that utilize conventional motor oil as their primary source of lubrication. 

The truth is - this is not a cut and dry, yes or no answer. In fact, depending on your individual application, The swap from conventional to synthetic or vice-versa may cause more harm than it's worth. In order to simplify the equation and to provide you with facts so you can make an informed decision.

What is Synthetic Oil?

Synthetic oil is made from chemical compounds that contain some petroleum elements combined with highly refined crude oil, organic, and inorganic compounds. In addition to synthetic oils, there are also synthetic blends that combine synthetic oils with traditional petroleum-based oils.

Synthetic oils were developed to address a major problem all combustion engines deal with each time they are started: oil and solvents do not mix well together. Engine oil is designed to lubricate moving parts inside the engine, especially inside the combustion chamber. However, most fuels are petroleum based and are solvents, which literally wash away conventional oil which coats components.

Synthetic motor oil provides a protective layer of thin lubrication on metallic components so they maintain lubrication for longer periods of time. As such, most synthetic oils have distinct advantages over regular motor oil, including:

• Better high and low viscosity performance
• Decreased evaporation
• Resistant to oxidation and sludge issues
• Improved lubrication during extreme cold weather
• Improved horsepower and torque
• Increased fuel economy

Synthetic oil typically lasts longer than conventional motor oil, which can reduce overall costs or at least help justify the higher price tag that comes with synthetic oils. For example, a person might change his or her oil every 3,000 miles with regular oil and only every 5,000 miles with synthetic oil.

Switching to Synthetic Oil from Conventional

When synthetic oil was originally developed it was meant to be used only in engines engineered to be specifically compatible with it. Older synthetic oils used esters, which are chemical compounds mixed with alcohol, and were harder on the components, including engine seals and gaskets. The esters would cause wear and create oil leakage, and potentially overheating problems. Today’s synthetic oils use less alcohol compounds, and engine gaskets and seals are made to withstand synthetic oils.

In general, there are three primary benefits to switching from conventional to synthetic oil:

• To reduce oil change intervals
• To remove carbon deposits on moving internal engine components (like cylinder head valves)
• To extend engine life

As you made the switch from conventional to synthetic, it is recommended to do this progressively. Here are a few tips to consider:

• For the first oil and filter change, switch from conventional to conventional/synthetic blend. Continue with synthetic/conventional blend for at least two other oil changes.
• Always replace the oil filter anytime you change engine oil.
• On the third oil change, switch from the conventional/synthetic blend to full synthetic.

The one thing you do not want to change is the recommended oil weight or viscosity. If the above process is followed, it should be safe to switch from regular to synthetic or use a synthetic blend as long as you use the same weight of oil.

Concerns About Switching to Synthetic Oil

Most newer model vehicles will adapt to the change with no problem. However, older models with high mileage may not adjust to the change. Their seals are likely to be thinner and worn and you may find that they start burning oil as it seeps into the combustion chamber. It is important to consult your owner’s manual or ask a trusted technician before making the switch in a vehicle.

No matter what type of oil you use, regular maintenance with oil changes is essential to extending the life of your engine. Follow the guidelines by the manufacturer or ask the technician how often you should have your oil changed based on the make and model and how the vehicle is used.

5 Car Parts Potholes Can Damage

Car damage from potholes is common during the rainy season. Check for tire bulges, suspension problems, and body damage if you drive over a pothole.

You might encounter dozens of potholes on your daily commute, and they can only be avoided for so long. You’re bound to hit one eventually, which can seriously damage your car.

How potholes form

Potholes are road imperfections that occur when soil compacted beneath pavement becomes weakened or displaced. Roads are particularly likely to form potholes in wet seasons, when lots of running water disrupt the base layers under the pavement. As cars drive over these weak spots, the pavement deforms, cracks, and chips away, leaving a hole in the road surface. Potholes start small, but grow as traffic hits them, potentially becoming deep or large enough to damage a car.

What to check if you hit a pothole

If you drive through a pothole, check these four areas to make sure it didn’t cause a problem that needs to be fixed:

Tires: Tires are meant to be the only part of your car that touches the road, so it isn’t a surprise that they’re susceptible to pothole damage like sidewall bulges, tread separation, or flats. These can happen because potholes often have a hard edge that compresses the tire against the wheel on impact, slicing the rubber or snapping the belts that hold a tire together. Driving on a blown out tire isn’t safe, but you may be able to repair it. However, a tire with a sidewall bubble or separated tread needs to be replaced right away. Cars with low-profile tires are particularly prone to pothole damage. Make sure your tires are always correctly inflated to help prevent these types of issues.

Wheels: Scraping your rims never looks good, but even the worst curb rash can’t damage a wheel like a pothole can. Hard angles in potholes apply impact force to wheels in ways they weren’t designed to handle, leading to bends, chips, or cracks. A bent wheel won’t roll smoothly and may not be able to form an airtight seal with a tire. Chips are usually easy to notice since they look like a chunk missing from the rim where it meets the tire. However, cracks can be subtle hairline fractures along the wheel circumference or in one of the spokes. Brake dust and road grime can make cracks difficult to spot, so give your wheels a thorough clean and inspection to check. Bent wheels can sometimes be repaired, but chipped or cracked wheels can fail catastrophically and must be replaced entirely.

Suspension: Car suspension is designed to absorb impacts and provide a smooth ride, but there’s a limit to how much it can handle. Sudden, jarring hits against potholes can cause a variety of suspension problems, including misalignment, broken ball joints, and damaged shocks or struts. Suspension bent out of alignment can usually be put back into place by a qualified mechanic, but until it’s fixed you may notice your steering wheel is off center, your car pulls in one direction, the handling feels loose, and your tires wear unevenly. Unusual vibrations and sounds, wandering steering, poor ride quality, or the vehicle leaning to one side can indicate broken ball joints, struts, or shocks, which usually need to be replaced outright. It can be difficult to correctly diagnose suspension damage, so it’s best to have an experienced mechanic inspect the entire system if you notice any of these symptoms.

Exhaust: Since exhaust pipes run along the undercarriage of a car, they’re a perfect target for potholes lurking in the road. Deep potholes can cause a car to bottom out and scrape the undercarriage against the pavement, potentially denting or ripping a hole in the exhaust pipes, muffler, or catalytic converter. You may experience a loss of power or unpleasant noises if there’s a hole in your exhaust system, but perhaps worse is the fact that your car will spew out harmful pollution unchecked. What’s more, a leaky pipe can let exhaust fumes into the cabin, posing a potentially serious health hazard.

Body: Generally speaking, the lower a car is to the ground, the better it handles, but cars that sacrifice ride height in pursuit of sportiness are more likely to be damaged by potholes. In addition to the issues listed above, potholes can scrape against low-hanging bumpers or side skirts. While this type of damage is usually cosmetic and doesn’t affect safety or performance, it’s still something that drivers who care about their car’s looks want to avoid. If you drive a low, sporty car, use its sharp handling to safely maneuver around any potholes you see.

The good news is that most potholes aren’t big or deep enough to pose a threat to your car. With correctly inflated tires and aligned suspension, chances are it will roll right through them. However, as seasons change and potholes grow, you need to stay alert and avoid them as best you can. If you don’t, you risk expensive car part repairs and replacements.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Idle Control Valve

Common signs include irregular or unusually high idle speed, the Check Engine Light coming on, and stalling while idling.

The idle control valve, also commonly referred to as the idle air control valve, is an engine management component that is found in one form or another on the majority of road going vehicles. Its purpose is to control and regulate the engine idle speed, increasing and decreasing it as necessary to keep up with operating conditions.

Most idle control valves come in the form of a motorized valve or motor that is mounted somewhere on the vehicle’s intake manifold. The valve or motor is controlled by the engine control module, which will adjust the idle speed according to parameters such as engine temperature and electrical system load.

When the idle control valve fails it can cause all sorts of issues with the vehicle, and in some cases may even render it undrivable. Usually a bad or failing idle control valve will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue.

1. Irregular idle speed

One of the most common symptoms commonly associated with a problematic idle air control valve is irregular idle speed. The idle air control valve is programmed to regulate and maintain the engine idle speed at a constant rate. If the valve fails or has any issues it can cause the idle speed to be thrown off. This may result in an unusually high or low idle speed, or in some cases a surging idle speed that repeatedly climbs and falls.

2. Check Engine Light comes on

Another symptom of a potential issue with the idle control valve is an illuminated Check Engine Light. If the engine control module detects an issue with the idle air control valve circuit or signal, it will set off the Check Engine Light to notify the driver that there's an issue. The Check Engine Light can also be set off by a wide variety of issues, so having the computer scanned for trouble codes is highly recommended.

3. Engine stalling

Another more serious symptom of an issue with the idle control valve is engine stalling. If the idle control valve fails completely, it may leave the vehicle without a source of air to maintain a proper idle. This may result in the engine stalling while operating, and in some cases may result in an engine that will not idle at all, and stalls as soon as it is started.

Usually a faulty idle control valve will produce symptoms noticeable enough that the driver will quickly become aware that there is an issue. If your vehicle is experiencing any of the symptoms above, or you suspect that your idle control valve may be having a problem, have the vehicle diagnosed by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG, to determine if the idle control valve needs replacement.

Symptoms of Bad or Failing Intake Manifold Gaskets

Common signs include the engine constantly overheating, coolant leaking, engine misfires, and a decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel economy.

The intake manifold gaskets are some of the most important gaskets found on an engine. Gaskets are the seals placed between engine components before they are assembled in order to provide a reliable seal. They can be made of paper, rubber, metal, and sometimes a combination of the three.

The intake manifold gaskets are responsible for sealing the intake manifold against the cylinder head(s). Apart from sealing engine vacuum, certain designs will also seal engine coolant. When the intake manifold gaskets have an issue, they can cause drivability problems and even engine overheating. Usually a faulty intake manifold gasket will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue.

1. Engine misfires and decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel economy

One of the most common symptoms of an issue with intake manifold gaskets is engine performance issues. As the vehicle acquires mileage, the intake manifold gaskets may wear out and eventually leak. This can cause major performance issues, as the intake manifold gaskets seal engine vacuum and pressure. A vacuum leak caused by a bad intake manifold gasket can throw off the engine’s air-fuel ratio and cause engine performance issues such as misfires, a decrease in power and acceleration, a reduction in fuel efficiency, and even stalling.

2. Coolant leaks

Another symptom of a faulty intake manifold gasket is coolant leaks. Some intake manifold gaskets also seal engine coolant, and if the gasket wears out it may lead to a coolant leak. This may produce a distinct coolant smell, along with steam, and drips or puddles of coolant underneath the vehicle. Coolant leaks should be addressed as soon as possible, in order to prevent them from becoming a greater issue.

3. Engine overheating

Engine overheating is another symptom of a possible issue with the intake manifold gaskets. A coolant leak will eventually lead to engine overheating when the coolant level drops too low, however there are instances where overheating can occur without any visible leaks. If the intake manifold gaskets leak coolant into the intake manifold the engine may overheat as a result, without any visible external leaks. Any coolant leaks should be addressed as soon as possible to prevent the possibility of serious engine damage occurring due to a bad intake manifold gasket.

While a faulty intake manifold gasket will produce symptoms that quickly alert the driver of an issue, there can be instances where a leak is difficult to detect. If you suspect that your intake manifold gasket or gaskets may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician from AutoFactorNG to determine if the gasket should be replaced.

Top 10 Brake System Issues Every Car Owner Needs To Know

Every driver should know how to check for problems with car brakes. Warped rotors, leaky brake hoses, and squeaky brakes are among the most common.

Are the brakes on your car squealing, is the car pulling to one side, or is there a giant puddle on the garage floor? All of these problems point to an issue with your braking system.

The brakes of a vehicle are an essential component to the safety of both the driver and the passengers. While brakes are quite reliable the system does require routine maintenance and problems can develop as a car ages.

How brakes work

The brake system in most modern vehicles is either a drum system or disc. Disc brakes use a rotor, which is attached to the hub of the wheel, calipers, brake pads, and a hydraulic system to slow the car and bring it to a stop.

When the brake pedal is depressed, the hydraulic system multiplies the pressure being put on the pedal, which causes the calipers to push the brake pads against the rotor, which slows the car and brings it to a stop.

A drum system works on the same principle. When the brake pedal is depressed the hydraulic system pushes the brake shoes against the drum, which is attached to the hub of the wheel. This slows the car and brings it to a stop.

Modern brake systems are extremely reliable but there are numerous parts and some of them require routine maintenance and replacement.

The top 10 brake concerns every driver should know

Brake pads: Worn out brake pads will cause the braking distance to increase and may cause a metal to metal grinding on the rotor surfaces. If a brake pad gets cracks in its surface - caused from overheating the pad - then they will squeak or squeal when stopping. If the pads and rotors get overheated then the stopping distance will be increased. Once you hear a squealing sound on a regular basis, it's time to replace the brake pads.

Rotors: The brake rotor surface needs to be flat to keep contact with the brake pads. If the rotor surface is warped from heat damage it will cause the brake pedal to pulsate up and down and the vehicle to jerk when stopping. If a rotor is overheated its surface will be discolored blue to purple and this hardens the surface and the brake pads will not be able to grip them. This will cause a vehicle to not stop as quickly as it should.

Leaks: A leak in the braking system is usually a hydraulic issue. If the brake pedal goes to the floor, it can usually be traced back to a leak. A leak in the brake line will result in a loss of brake fluid, and eventually the brake system may fail altogether. Leaks should be addressed immediately, a pool of brake fluid on the garage floor or a low brake pedal are all symptoms of this problem.

Sticking caliper: The caliper and caliper brackets hold the brake pads and force them against the rotor to stop the vehicle. Caliper pistons can become stuck in their bore, and when this happens the car will usually pull to one side when the brakes are applied or the pads and rotors will be overheated or worn down too fast. It will also affect performance under acceleration as the brake is sticking. A sticking caliper is more than a nuisance, it can be dangerous and should be repaired immediately. Sometimes the caliper bracket slides will bind causing the same issues as a stuck caliper except only one pad will get worn down too fast instead of both.

Warped rotors: Rotors can become warped if they are exposed to extreme stress. Mountain driving or towing can result in warped rotors. Even something as simple as parking a car next to a sprinkler system can warp a rotor. The cold water hitting the hot brakes can result in warping. Warped rotors will usually cause the steering wheel and vehicle to shake when the brakes are applied. Warped rotors may even increase stopping distance or cause the antilock brakes to prematurely engage.

Brake fade: If the vehicle is taking longer than normal to stop it is probably due to brake fade. In most cases this is a short-term problem but it can turn into a long-term issue. As an example, driving down a mountain road will heat up the brakes making the pads and rotors less responsive. Once the brakes cool down they should return to normal functionality. As time goes on brake fade can become permanent and then it is time to replace the brake pads and rotors. This is the early sign of overheating the brakes and will damage the rotors and pads.

Smoking brakes: While smoking brakes sound sort of cool, it is actually a very dangerous condition. Overheated brakes or brakes that are smoking means the brake pads have been burned or something is leaking onto the brakes. If this happens, the pads will develop a glaze, which can severely affect performance. If axle seals are leaking onto the brakes it will ruin the brake pads and rotors.

Brake light: If the brake light on the dash illuminates it can indicate a serious issue with the braking system. In most cases it indicates a problem with the hydraulics and the vehicle should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. It is never safe to drive if the brake light is illuminated. The light also doubles duty to let you know the parking brake is on in some vehicles.

Faulty or collapsed hoses: A collapsed or malfunctioning brake hose can result in calipers that move unevenly. This will cause the vehicle pull to one side when the brakes are applied. If the brakes are pulling to one side the vehicle should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible. Sometimes the fluid pressure to the caliper will not be released by the faulty hose and will keep the caliper applied.

Emergency brake on: This may seem silly, but it happens more often than you would imagine. It is pretty easy to forget to release the emergency brake, and this will cause performance issues as well as damage to the brake system. If the car seems to be accelerating slowly or you hear a squealing or grinding noise check to make sure the parking brake is not engaged. If the parking brake cables seize after the parking brake is applied and then you try to release then can cause the vehicle to not be moved at all.

Top 5 Things That Will Drain Your Battery

It can be hard to figure out what causes a car battery to drain. A dead battery, old battery, or bad alternator can cause battery charging problems.

You're late for work and rush out to your car, only to find that it won't start. The headlights are dim and the engine simply refuses to turn over. You realize that your battery is dead. But how did this happen? There are five main causes of car battery drain or failure.

Human error

You’ve probably done this at least once in your life – you come home from work, tired and not really thinking, and left the headlights on or didn't completely close the trunk. Overnight the battery drains, and in the morning your car won’t start. Many new cars alert you if you’ve left your lights on, but may not have alerts for other components.

Parasitic drain

Parasitic drain is due to components in your vehicle continuing to run after the key is turned off. Some parasitic drain is normal – your battery delivers enough energy to keep things, like your clock, radio presets, and security alarm operational at all times. However, if there's an electrical problem, parasitic drain can exceed what's normal and deplete the battery.

Bad charging

If your charging system isn’t working properly, your car battery can drain even while you’re driving. Many cars power their lights, radio, and other systems from the alternator, which can make the battery drain worse if there's a charging problem. Then you’ll be stranded at roadside with a stalled car that needs a boost. And even then, bad charging will drain your car’s battery. A professional mechanic will be able to diagnose what's causing a charging problem.

Defective alternator diode

A car alternator recharges the battery and powers certain electrical systems. If your alternator has a bad diode, your battery can drain. The bad diode can cause the circuit to charge even when the engine is shut off, and you end up in the morning with a car that won’t start.

Old battery

If your battery is old, it might not hold a full charge. If your car consistently won't start, it’s possible that the battery is worn out. You should generally replace your car battery every 4-5 years. If your car isn’t starting consistently, and your battery is old, battery replacement should be the first thing you consider.

Having a battery that won't hold a charge is frustrating, and figuring out what's causing the problem can be tricky. Assuming that the cause of the battery drain is not human error, you will need the assistance of a qualified mechanic who can diagnose your car's electrical problems and determine if it is the battery or something else in the electrical system.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Ignition Coil

Common signs include the Check Engine Light coming on, engine misfiring, rough idle, a reduction in power, and the car not starting.

Ignition coils are an electronic engine management component that are a part of the vehicle’s ignition system. The ignition coil functions as an induction coil that converts the vehicle’s 12 volts into the several thousand that are required to jump the spark plug gap and ignite the engine’s air-fuel mixture. Some ignition systems will use one coil to provide the spark for all of the cylinders, however most newer designs use an individual coil for each cylinder.

As the ignition coil is the component responsible for generating the engine spark, any problems with it can quickly lead to engine performance issues. Usually a faulty ignition coil will produce a few symptoms that alert the driver of a potential issue.


1. Engine misfires, rough idle, and loss of power

One of the most common symptoms associated with a faulty ignition coil is engine performance issues. As the ignition coils are among the ignition system's most vital components, an issue can cause spark to be compromised, which can quickly lead to performance issues. Faulty coils may cause the vehicle to experience misfires, a rough idle, a loss in power and acceleration, and a reduction in gas mileage. In some cases the performance issues may even result in the vehicle stalling.

2. Check Engine Light comes on

Another symptom of a potential issue with the vehicle’s ignition coils is an illuminated Check Engine Light. Faulty coils can lead to engine performance issues, particularly misfires, which will trip the computer and set off the Check Engine Light. The Check Engine Light will also be set off if the computer detects an issue with the ignition coil signal or circuit, such as when a coil burns out or shorts. An illuminated Check Engine Light can be caused by a wide variety of issues, so having the computer (scanned for trouble codes)

3. Car is not starting

A faulty ignition coil can also lead to a no-start condition. For vehicles that use a single ignition coil as the source of spark for all of the cylinders, a faulty coil will affect the operation of the entire engine. If the coil fails completely, it will leave the engine without spark, which will result in a no spark, no-start condition.

Problems with ignition coils are usually easy to detect as they produce symptoms that will be quite noticeable to the driver. If you suspect that your vehicle’s ignition coils are having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician from AutoFactorNG to determine if any coils need to be replaced.

Common Signs of a Dirty Air Filter

A car air filter cleans the air entering the engine. Signs of a dirty air filter include a misfiring engine, unusual noises, and reduced fuel economy.

A car engine combines air and gasoline in the combustion chamber to create power. This air reaches the engine through an air filter that works to keep out road debris, dirt, bugs, and other contaminants that can damage the engine. At the same time, the air filter must allow enough air to reach the engine so that it can perform effectively. Over time, the air filter can become dirty and clogged, and the lack of air can affect the overall performance of your car.

Most auto companies recommend that you change the air filter every 10,000 to 15,000 miles, or every 12 months. However, if you typically drive in dusty or rural areas like Scottsdale, Arizona, or San Antonio, Texas, you might want to have your mechanic check and change it more frequently, such as every 6,000 miles. Driving in crowded areas where there is heavy traffic – including Los Angeles and Washington D.C. – and you need to stop and start more often also requires you to replace the air filter more frequently.

Make note of these symptoms that indicate your air filter needs replacing:

Reduced fuel economy

Your engine compensates for lower amounts of oxygen by consuming more fuel to produce sufficient power. Thus, if you notice that your fuel economy is going down, it could be an indication that the air filter needs replacing. However, this is true only for carbureted cars, most of which were made before 1980. Newer cars with fuel-injected engines have onboard computers which calculate the amount of air taken into the engine, and adjusts the fuel flow accordingly. Therefore, the cleanliness of the air filter on newer cars shouldn't significantly affect fuel economy.

Misfiring engine

Restricted air supply from a dirty air filter results in unburnt fuel exiting the engine in the form of soot residue. This soot accumulates on the spark plug, which in turn cannot deliver the necessary spark to combust the air-fuel mixture. You’ll notice that the engine does not start up easily, misfires, or jerks roughly.

Unusual engine sounds

In normal circumstances, when your car is stationary with the engine turned on, you should sense the smooth rotation of the engine in the form of subtle vibrations. If you notice your car vibrating excessively or hear a coughing or popping sound, it is often due to a dirty or damaged spark plug resulting from a clogged air filter.

Check Engine Light comes on

Many modern engines suck up about 10,000 gallons of air for every single gallon of fuel burned in the combustion cycle. Inadequate air supply can result in carbon deposits accumulating in the engine which may set off the Check Engine Light. If that happens, have your mechanic check the air filter among other diagnostics.

Air filter appears dirty

A clean air filter appears white or off white in color, but as it accumulates dust and dirt, it will look darker in color. However, very often, the inner layers of filter paper inside the air filter might have dust and debris that is not visible even in bright light. Therefore, it is essential that you have your mechanic check the air filter when you take the car for maintenance. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding replacement.

Reduced horsepower

If your car does not respond adequately or if you notice jerking movements when you press the accelerator, this could indicate that your engine is not receiving all the air it needs to perform. Replacing your air filter can improve acceleration or horsepower by up to 11%.

Black sooty smoke or flames exiting the exhaust

An inadequate air supply can result in some of the fuel not burning completely in the combustion cycle. This unburnt fuel then exits the car through the exhaust pipe. If you see black smoke coming from your exhaust pipe, have your mechanic replace or clean the air filter. You might also hear popping sounds or see a flame at the end of the exhaust. This happens when the heat in the exhaust system ignites unburnt fuel near the tailpipe. This is a potentially hazardous condition and needs to be diagnosed right away.

Smell of gasoline when starting the car

If there isn’t enough oxygen entering the carburetor or fuel ejection system when you start the car, the excess unburnt fuel exits the car through the exhaust pipe. That’s when you’ll smell the gasoline and know that it’s time to replace the air filter.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Engine Mount

Common signs include impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement.

Engine mounts are the component responsible for securing the engine of a vehicle to the chassis. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit a wide variety of needs, but they all serve the same purpose of mounting the engine and dampening engine vibration. They are usually made of metal and rubber. Metal is used to be able to withstand the force and torque generated by the engine, and rubber is used to absorb and dampen the vibrations. As engines generate a considerable amount of vibration in their regular operation, when there is a problem with the motor mounts, it can usually be quite noticeable. Usually problematic motor mounts will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue that should be serviced.

1. Impact noises coming from the engine bay

One of the most common symptoms associated with worn engine mounts are impact noises coming from the engine bay. Worn, damaged, or broken motor mounts can cause clunking, banging, and other impact type sounds as a result of the weight of the engine shifting excessively to the point of contact.

2. Excessive vibrations

Another symptom of a bad or failing motor mount is excessive vibration. If the rubber or vibration dampening parts of the motor mount wear out or break, it will significantly reduce the mounts ability to absorb engine vibrations. Undamped engine vibrations will cause the entire vehicle to vibrate, which may make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers.

3. Engine movement

Another symptom of bad or failing engine mounts is an engine that moves in the engine bay. If the engine mounts are in good condition, they should be able to secure the engine firmly in the engine bay. If they are worn or broken, however, this may result in an engine that will move forward, backwards, or side to side in the engine bay. The movement may be especially pronounced when accelerating, and may also be accompanied by an impact noise of some sort.

Due to the amount of vibration that engines generate as part of their regular operation, motor mounts are an important component on any vehicle. When they fail, this will not only make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers, it can also place an additional strain that can damage other components. If you suspect that your motor mounts may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. They will be able to look over your vehicle and determine if it needs an engine mount replacement.