Symptoms of Bad or Failing Wheel Bearing

Common signs include abnormal tire wear, grinding or roaring noise from the tire area, vibration in the steering wheel, and play in the wheels.

One of the most overlooked yet highly critical parts of the drive-axle and steering assembly are the wheel bearings. Every wheel on your car is attached to a hub and inside this hub is a set of lubricated wheel bearings that allows your tires and wheels to spin freely without building up too much heat. They are engineered to last a very long time, however, eventually they will lose their lubricity, wear out, and need to be replaced. If they break entirely, it can cause a wheel/tire combination to fall off the car while at speed, leading to a very unsafe driving situation.

Prior to 1997, most cars, trucks and SUV's manufactured and sold in the US had an inner and outer bearing on each wheel that is recommended to be serviced every 30,000 miles. As technology improved, newer vehicle were equipped with a "maintenance free" single wheel bearing that was designed to extend the life of wheel bearings without having to be serviced. From time to time, these "indestructible" wheel bearings will wear out and need to be replaced before they break.

There are a few warning signs that are rather simple to recognize indicating a wheel bearing is wearing out and needs to be replaced.

1. Abnormal tire wear

There are many individual mechanical problems that can lead to abnormal tire wear including:

• Under or over inflated tires
• CV Joints
• Struts and Shocks
• Misaligned Suspension

However, one of the most common sources of uneven tire wear is worn out wheel bearings. It's very rare for wheel bearings to wear evenly. As such, if the left tire is showing more wear, it might indicate a problem with the left wheel bearing. However, wheel bearings need to be replaced together; if there is a problem with one side, you need to replace the other wheel bearing on the same axle. If you or a tire technician notice that one side of your vehicle's tires are wearing out quicker than the other, contact a certified mechanic so they can road test and diagnose the cause of this tire wear. In many cases it can be something different or minor, but you don't want to risk having a wheel bearing break.

2. Grinding or roaring noise coming from the tire area

It's very difficult to detect a failing wheel bearing as it does not happen very often and when they do wear out, it can happen rather quickly. However, one warning sign of a wearing out wheel bearing is a loud grinding or roaring sound that comes from the tire area of your car. This is caused by excess heat that has built up inside the wheel bearing and losing a lot of its lubricity. Essentially it's a metal-to-metal sound that you're hearing. It's also common that you'll hear this from one, specific wheel and not both sides at the same time. Like the above issue, if you notice this warning sign, contact a certified mechanic as soon as possible so they can diagnose the source of this sound and fix it before it becomes a safety issue.

3. Vibration in the steering wheel

Another common symptom with other mechanical problems in the drive and steering assembly, a vibration in the steering wheel can be caused by worn out wheel bearings. Unlike a tire balance problem that typically shows up at higher speeds, a vibration in the steering wheel thanks to a worn out wheel bearing will be noticed at slower speeds and progressively get worse as the vehicle accelerates.

4. Additional play in the wheels

This is not very common for normal car owners to diagnose. However, if you have the tire jacked up or the vehicle is on a hydraulic lift, you can check this one out yourself. Grab the wheel on opposite sides and attempt to rock it back and forth. If the wheel bearings are good, the wheel won't "wobble". However, if the tire/wheel assembly moves back and forth, this is most likely due to worn out wheel bearings that need to be replaced as soon as possible.

Additionally, if you notice that the vehicle has a hard time rolling while the clutch is depressed or the vehicle is in neutral gear, it can be caused by wheel bearings that are worn out, creating friction and could be failing.

Anytime you notice any of the above symptoms of a worn out or failing wheel bearing, contact a dependable and local certified mechanic who will road test, diagnose and replace the wheel bearings if needed.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Engine Mount

Common signs include impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement.

Engine mounts are the component responsible for securing the engine of a vehicle to the chassis. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit a wide variety of needs, but they all serve the same purpose of mounting the engine and dampening engine vibration. They are usually made of metal and rubber. Metal is used to be able to withstand the force and torque generated by the engine, and rubber is used to absorb and dampen the vibrations. As engines generate a considerable amount of vibration in their regular operation, when there is a problem with the motor mounts, it can usually be quite noticeable. Usually problematic motor mounts will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue that should be serviced.

1. Impact noises coming from the engine bay

One of the most common symptoms associated with worn engine mounts are impact noises coming from the engine bay. Worn, damaged, or broken motor mounts can cause clunking, banging, and other impact type sounds as a result of the weight of the engine shifting excessively to the point of contact.

2. Excessive vibrations

Another symptom of a bad or failing motor mount is excessive vibration. If the rubber or vibration dampening parts of the motor mount wear out or break, it will significantly reduce the mounts ability to absorb engine vibrations. Undamped engine vibrations will cause the entire vehicle to vibrate, which may make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers.

3. Engine movement

Another symptom of bad or failing engine mounts is an engine that moves in the engine bay. If the engine mounts are in good condition, they should be able to secure the engine firmly in the engine bay. If they are worn or broken, however, this may result in an engine that will move forward, backwards, or side to side in the engine bay. The movement may be especially pronounced when accelerating, and may also be accompanied by an impact noise of some sort.

Due to the amount of vibration that engines generate as part of their regular operation, motor mounts are an important component on any vehicle. When they fail, this will not only make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers, it can also place an additional strain that can damage other components. If you suspect that your motor mounts may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. They will be able to look over your vehicle and determine if it needs an engine mount replacement.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Brake Rotor/Disc

Common signs include noisy brakes, vibrations that can be felt on the pedal, and score marks on the rotor.

The disc brake rotors are metal discs that work together with the brake pads and calipers to slow the vehicle. When the pedal is depressed, the calipers squeeze the brake pads against the spinning rotors to slow and stop the wheels and the vehicle. Since rotors work to slow the vehicle by using friction from direct contact with the brake pads, they do wear out over time and will eventually need to be replaced. Usually when rotors have a problem, they will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver that they may require attention.

1. Noisy brakes

One of the first symptoms commonly associated with bad brake rotors is noise. If the rotors are warped or severely worn, they may produce squealing or squeaking sounds. Usually warped rotors will produce a squeak, while severely worn rotors will produce a scraping sound.

2. Vibrations from the brakes

Another symptom of bad brake rotors is excessive vibration coming from the brakes. Warped or excessively worn rotors may vibrate irregularly and cause vibrations that can be felt in the pedal, and sometimes through the vehicle’s chassis. Warped rotors may also produce a pulsating feel that will be felt in the pedal when the brakes are applied.

3. Grooves or score marks on the rotor

Another symptom of bad or failing rotors is visual scoring or grooves on the face of the rotor. Over time, grooves or scoring marks can develop on the rotor from repeated contact with the brake pads. Scoring and grooves in a rotor can take away from its capacity to slow the vehicle, as well as cause vibration and pulsation that can be felt in the pedal. Usually scored or grooved rotors will require replacement.

The disc brake rotors are a very important part of the braking system, and as a result are critical to the overall safety and handling characteristics of the vehicle. If you suspect that your rotors may be worn or damaged, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AUTOFACTORNG, to determine if your car needs a brake rotor/disc replacement.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Alternator

Common signs include having to jump start the car frequently, dim lights when operating the vehicle, or the Battery Light coming on.

The electrical charging system is one of the most important systems on any vehicle. The charging system is made up of several components, including the alternator and battery, that work together to supply all of the vehicle’s electrical needs. The alternator is what specifically generates the amperage and electricity required to meet the vehicle’s electrical needs, including keeping the battery charged.

Because the alternator plays such a vital role in keeping all of the vehicle’s electrical components powered, any problems with the alternator can quickly develop into problems with another system or component on the vehicle. Usually, a defective or failing alternator will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue, allowing time for the driver to service the vehicle before a bigger problem occurs.

1. Having to jump start the vehicle on a regular basis

One of the first symptoms of a bad or failing alternator is the need to jump start the vehicle on a regular basis. It is the job of the battery to provide the power to crank the engine and start the vehicle, however, it is the job of the alternator to make sure that the battery stays charged. If the alternator is beginning to have problems or has failed, it will not be able to meet the vehicle’s electrical needs, including keeping the battery fully charged. A low or uncharged battery will not be able to keep up with the load required to start an engine multiple times, and will result in a dead battery. Continuously having to jump start the vehicle may be a sign that the alternator may not be charging the battery and is therefore unable to successfully start a vehicle.

2. Dim lights

Another symptom of a potential problem with the alternator is dim or flickering lights. If you notice any sort of flickering or dimming of the lights when operating the vehicle, it may be a sign that the alternator is not generating enough power to keep up with the vehicle’s electrical needs. The dimming or flickering may coincide with certain actions when operating the vehicle, such as dimming when pressing on the gas pedal, turning up the volume on the stereo, or turning on another light. This symptom may be indicative of an alternator that is unable to keep up with the needs of the vehicle’s electrical system while it is running, and when additional loads are placed on it.

3. Battery Light comes on

One of the most common symptoms of a problem with the alternator is an illuminated Battery Light. The Battery Light will usually come on when the computer detects that the system voltage has fallen below a certain requirement. This usually means that the alternator, or perhaps one of its internal components, has failed and it is no longer able to keep up with the vehicle’s electrical requirements, and it has been detected by the computer. An illuminated Battery Light also indicates that the vehicle is now running on limited battery life. Depending on the condition of the battery, and how long the Battery Light has been on, the vehicle should be able to run for a short amount of time before the battery finally dies. At that point, the vehicle will shut off and service will be required.

The alternator is among a vehicle’s most important components, as it essentially serves to provide the electrical supply for the entire vehicle. Any problems with it can quickly translate to problems with starting and running the vehicle, which opens up the possibility of being stranded on the road.

If you suspect that your vehicle may be having a problem with the alternator, or it is displaying any of the symptoms above, [have the battery and alternator carefully inspected] by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. WE will be able to determine if an alternator replacement is necessary, or if another issue needs to be addressed.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Catalytic Converter

Common signs include reduced engine performance, rattling sounds, and the Check Engine Light turning on.

A catalytic converter is an exhaust emissions component that works to reduce vehicle emissions and pollution. It is a metal canister that is installed in the exhaust system. It is filled with a chemical catalyst, usually a platinum and palladium mixture, and helps to convert the vehicle’s emissions into non-harmful gasses. Usually a faulty catalytic converter will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver that service may be required.

1. Reduced engine performance

One of the first symptoms commonly associated with a bad or failing catalytic converter is a reduction in engine performance. The catalytic converter is built into the vehicle’s exhaust system, and as a result, can affect the performance of the engine if it develops any problems. A clogged converter will restrict exhaust flow, while a cracked one will leak. Both can negatively affect engine performance and can cause a reduction in power and acceleration as well as fuel economy.

2. Rattling noise

Rattling noises are another symptom of a bad or failing catalytic converter. If a catalytic converter becomes old or damaged internally from excessively rich fuel mixtures, the catalyst coated honeycombs on the inside of the converter can collapse or break apart causing a rattle. The rattle may be more obvious when starting the vehicle, and will get worse over time.

3. Check Engine Light comes on

A bad or failing catalytic converter can also cause an illuminated Check Engine Light. The oxygen and air fuel ratio sensors that modern vehicles are designed with monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter by monitoring the gas levels in the exhaust. If the computer detects that the catalytic converter is not operating correctly, or not catalyzing the exhaust gases properly, it will set off the Check Engine Light to alert the driver that there is a problem. A Check Engine Light can also be activated by a variety of other problems, so it is recommended to have the vehicle scanned for trouble codes to be certain of the issue.

The catalytic converter is one of the most important emissions components found on modern vehicles. Without it the vehicle may produce excessive emissions and have trouble passing the emissions tests that are required in some states. If you suspect that your catalytic converter may be having a problem, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AUTOFACTORNG to determine if the car will need a catalytic converter replacement.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Tie Rod End

Common signs include a front end alignment that is off, a shaky or loose steering wheel, and uneven or excessive tire wear.

The job of keeping your wheels and tires driving straight down the road is completed by several components in the suspension system. Whether you have a truck, SUV, or commuter car, they all have tie rod ends that attach to the wheel housing and ensure your vehicle has a smooth and efficient ride every day. However, this component is subject to extreme wear and tear due to the fact that it's used every time the vehicle is in motion. When it wear out or fails, you'll notice a few warning signs that should be inspected by a certified mechanic and replaced if needed.

As the name implies, the tie rod end is attached at the tip of the tie rod and connects the wheels of the vehicle with the steering and suspension components that permit the vehicle to steer. When the tie rod end begins to wear out, it's usually due to impact, constant use on bumpy roads or simple age. Frequently, the part that wears out in the tie rod end is actually the bushing. However, it's advised that you replace the tie rod end completely as metal fatigue can also cause the part to fail. If you have the tie rod ends replaced, it's critical that you remind the mechanic to complete a front end alignment, which will set your wheels to point straight.

Like any other mechanical part, a worn out tie rod end will display a few warning signs or indicators that the part is failing and needs to be replaced. Listed below are a few of these symptoms. If you notice any of these, please contact a mechanic as soon as possible so they may properly diagnose the problem and take corrective action to replace what might be broken.

Top 10 Bad Driving Habits That Damage Your Car

Even the best drivers are guilty of bad driving habits. Riding the brakes, not warming up the engine, and ignoring warning signs will damage your car.

Your vehicle is one of your most costly possessions, and it’s certainly one on which you heavily depend. So, you want it to last as long as possible. Even if you have the proper vehicle maintenance measures in place, there may be important day-to-day responsibilities you overlook that have a negative impact on the life of your car.

Here are the top 10 bad driving habits that can cause inadvertent but significant harm to your car:

• Ignoring the Parking Brake: When you park on an incline, use the parking brake even if you don’t think it’s necessary (read: your car has an automatic transmission). If you don’t, you put pressure on your transmission, where there’s just a small little pin the size of your pinky finger, known as the parking pawl, keeping the whole weight of your car in place.

• Shifting Into Drive or Reverse When Not Completely Stopped: In a car with an automatic transmission, making the shift into Drive or Reverse isn’t like switching from first gear to second in a manual. You force your transmission to do things it’s not intended to do, and that can cause damage to your drive shafts and suspension.

• Riding the Clutch: In cars with manual transmissions, drivers sometimes keep the clutch engaged when it’s not time to brake or shift gears. This can wreak havoc with the hydraulic system where the pressure plates meet the flywheel. Riding the clutch causes those plates to graze the flywheel willy-nilly, wearing down the system in general and potentially setting you up for sudden clutch failure in the future.

• Regularly Adding Small Amounts of Fuel to the Gas Tank: Although there may be times when you just can’t afford to fill the tank entirely or plan to wait for a better fuel deal, adding a few gallons of gas at a time and regularly running with low levels of fuel can actually hurt your car. That’s because it forces your car to take gas from the bottom of the tank, where there is sediment build-up. This can lead to a clogged fuel filter or debris passing into the engine.

• Riding the Brakes Downhill: Despite feeling like you’re poised to stop in an emergency, riding the brakes while going down hills, or even in general, causes undue wear and tear on your braking system. Driving in this manner actually sets you up for a higher risk of brake failure, so try driving in a lower gear instead, if you have the option.

• Sudden Stops and Take-Offs: Regularly slamming on the brake or gas pedal takes a large toll on your gas mileage and can even cause deterioration on parts like your brake pads and rotors.

• Using the Shift Lever as a Hand Rest: Unless you’re a professional racecar driver, there’s really no reason to drive around with your hand resting on your car’s shifter. The weight of your hand actually puts load on the sliders within your transmission, causing unnecessary wear.

• Carrying Heavy Loads You Don’t Need: It’s one thing to load your car down when helping a friend move or carrying tools to your job, but driving around with a bunch of extra weight for no reason decreases your gas mileage significantly and puts extra stress on all of your car’s components.

• Improperly “Warming Up” Your Car: While there’s nothing wrong with starting your car and letting it idle for a few minutes before you leave the house on a cold morning, revving the engine right off the bat to “warm it up” is a bad idea. This causes sudden temperature changes that can actually harm your car and forces the engine to work under load before the oil has a chance to fully circulate.

• Ignoring What Your Car Tries to “Tell” You: It’s not uncommon for your car to make unusual noises before mechanical issues make themselves known in more obvious (read: severe) ways. You know what your car should sound like, so putting off investigating a new rattle or hum only allows a problem to fester and get worse. When something starts to sound amiss, contact us to book a mechanic who can diagnose the issue and put things back in order.

16% Discount off Items this December

As the year 2016 is winding down, we are giving out 16% Discounts off all Suspension parts (shock absorbers, stabilizer linkage, ball joint, tie rod etc), Brake Systems (Brake pad, brake disc, brake calipers, brake shoes etc), tyres and batteries.

This promotion is open to both new and existing customers. Santa came in early because we are a company that cares for all our customers and want 100% satisfaction for everyone. We know that many will need their vehicles in perfect condition for the holiday travel and outings.

We also offer car diagnosis services which will be performed by our well trained and experienced technicians.

AUTOFACTORNG 216  is committed to bridging the gap between our customers and quality assured auto- products and auto-repair services, with quality and customer satisfaction being our watchword. And as we continue to expand nationwide, our SCALE of services will upgrade in class, satisfactory and convenience.

Top 10 Bad Car Symptoms You Should Never Ignore

Cars are intricate machines with thousands of individual parts. Over time and use these parts can wear down, become damaged, and cause problems. Repairing them can be costly, but it actually makes better financial sense to get bad or failing parts fixed right away. That way, you’ll avoid bigger problems further down the road. These 10 bad car symptoms should never be ignored.

Tire bulges: If you hit a piece of debris or overinflate your tires, a tire bulge can form. Tire bulges are bubbles of air in the sidewall where air has forced its way through the inner lining. They’re a visible weak point that can burst unexpectedly. To avoid a dangerous situation, get bulging tires replaced immediately.

Jerky shifting: Rough shifting is a sign there’s a problem with your car’s transmission. Worn clutches, stripped gears, and low transmission fluid can all result in jerky or clunky shifting. Whatever the cause, the problem will get worse each time your car changes gears, potentially leading to total transmission failure. A new transmission can cost thousands of dollars, so it’s always cheaper to get the problem inspected.

Squeaky belts: Drive, serpentine, or timing belts help keep your engine running in time and power electrical systems. If you hear a squeaking or chirping noise from under the hood, it’s a sign that a belt is worn down. Sometimes a fix is as simple as making an adjustment, but some cars have belts which can’t be adjusted. Either way, get it fixed ASAP – worn belts can snap and damage your engine beyond repair.

Stinky exhaust: Car exhaust always has some smell, but if it smells stronger or worse than usual, it means something is wrong. Leaking fluids can burn up on hot surfaces, producing unusual odors. Catalytic converters are designed to filter the exhaust, so a strong exhaust smell could mean this part is failing. The air/fuel mixture could also be off, which wastes fuel and makes the exhaust smelly. Follow your nose and inspect your car to find the source of the smell.

Scratched paint: A little scratch in your car’s paint could be a bigger deal than you think. Besides making it look good, your car’s paint protects the body panels from outside elements. Paint scratches expose the sheetmetal to moisture, creating an area where rust can form. Prevent corrosion by touching up the scratch with factory paint, or a dab of clear nail polish.

Wobbly steering wheel: Different problems can all lead to the same feeling of shakiness when you hold the steering wheel. Failing or improperly aligned suspension could be a cause. An out of balance wheel and tire, which also results in premature tire wear, could be the culprit. If a wheel bearing is worn it could cause shaking, and in a worst case scenario could fail and let the wheel detach from the car. Regardless of the cause, a wobbly steering wheel limits the amount of control you have over your car.

Squealing brakes: Generally, squealing or squeaking brakes indicate that it’s time for a new set of brake pads. Brake pads have a metal tab that becomes exposed as pad material wears away. When this tab contacts the brake rotor, it makes a high-pitched sound. It’s an audible signal that the pads need to be replaced, and the longer you wait, the worse the sound (and your braking ability) is going to become.

Burnt-out bulb:  A dead headlight or taillight bulb isn’t going to change the way your car drives, but it is a great way to attract the attention of law enforcement. Getting the bulb replaced quickly is going to be the simplest way to avoid an expensive ticket.

Smoke: It’s dangerous to keep driving if you see or smell smoke in your car. Many things could cause your car to smoke, but common culprits are leaking fluids, electrical issues, or a seized brake caliper. Don’t drive until you’ve located and fixed the problem that’s causing the smoke – otherwise you risk a vehicular bonfire.

Check Engine Light: The Check Engine Light on your dashboard can be a real mystery. It tells you something is wrong, but never tells you what that something is. Is it electrical or mechanical? Major or minor? You’ll never know unless you scan for error codes, so it’s best to get a diagnosis right away to prevent further problems.

Symptoms of Bad or Failing Brake Pads

Brakes are the component in the braking system that provide the friction to slow your vehicle. They are located in the brake calipers and function by pressing against the disc brake rotors with friction material to slow and stop the wheels.

As they are a contact wear item, the brake pads will eventually wear out over time and need to replaced. Usually bad or failing brake pads will produce a few symptoms that will alert the driver that the vehicle may require service.

1. Noisy brakes

The most common symptom of bad or failing brake pads are noisy brakes. Brake pads can accumulate dust as they wear, which if allowed to build excessively, may cause vibration and squealing when the pedal is applied or let off. Squealing brake pads can also be caused by excessively worn pads that have worn down to the point where the wear sensor has come into contact with the rotor. Severely worn brake pads, ones that have worn all the way to the brake pad backing plate, will produce a scraping sound as a result of the metal-on-metal contact between the brake pad backing plate and the rotor. Depending on the extent of the wear, the scraping may be audible when the vehicle is moving forward or when the pedal is depressed.

2. Pulsating pedal

Another symptom of bad or failing brake pads is a pulsating brake pedal. Severely or abnormally worn pads can cause the pedal to pulsate when the brakes are applied. A pulsating pedal may also be indicative of a potential problem with the rotor as well, as the pulsation felt in the pedal is a result of the contact between the rotor and brake pad.

3. Poor brake response

Bad or failing brake pads can also cause poor brake response. If the brake pads have been excessively overheated or severely worn, their capacity to slow the vehicle may be hindered as a result. Reduced brake response will take away from the overall handling and safety characteristics of the vehicle, especially during heavy braking situations where the force and heat generated by braking is considerably higher.

Because the brake pads are essentially the direct component that actually slows the vehicle, they are very important to the overall safety of the vehicle. If you suspect that your brake pads may be worn, or are making noise, have the vehicle’s brake system inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. If necessary, they will be able to replace the brake pads for you.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Change Your Shock Absorber

Shock absorbers are essential to a car's performance, giving it a smooth and even ride. However, these vehicle suspensions become worn out over time, causing potholes to become both more severe and difficult to ignore. If your shocks are worn out, you can replace them yourself with a little time and know-how.

PART ONE

1. Make sure you need new shocks: You might have noticed going over potholes and bumps isn't as smooth as it used to be in your ride, which is probably a sign that your shocks are worn out and need replaced. A good easy way to test your shocks and make sure they're worn out enough to be replaced is to push down hard on the trunk or the hood directly above the wheel well. Good shocks should bounce up once and settle relatively quickly. If the body bounces any more than that after pushing, it's time for a new set.

You also need to know if your vehicle uses stand-alone shocks that attach to the vehicle suspension or frame, or if it uses shock-absorber units which integrated into a suspension strut, such as the MacPherson or Chapman strut. Your car may even have a combination, using shocks in the front and struts in the back. Struts can be difficult to replace, so it's best to let a professional handle that job.

2. Purchase new shock absorbers: If you're unsure what type of shock absorbers you need, speak to someone at your local auto parts store or an auto mechanic to be sure you buy the right shock absorbers or piston for your vehicle.

3. Consider upgrading your shocks: You can get identical replacements of the shocks you have in your car currently, but taking the time to change out your shocks is also a good opportunity to perform any upgrades, if you're interested. Performance shocks are appropriate for heavy-use daily drive vehicles, es 487 pecially trucks.

Coil shocks are manufactured with a coiled spring around the body of the shock, which supports the weight of the vehicle and controls the movement of the suspension. These are adjustable, which means you can alter the height of your truck for optimum performance.

Twin-tube shocks have a set of tubes, one inner and one out, that house the piston, along with a layer of shock fluid and air, which can have a tendency to create a foamy, frothy mixture that can affect performance, though some modern variations feature a nitrogen mixture that addresses the issue. These are common on off-road vehicles.

Monotube shocks feature a tube and two pistons, which work essentially like the twin-tube shocks work, with one piston separating the layer of nitrogen from the air. It runs cool and is a popular performance choice for trucks.

Reservoir shocks are filled with fluid, and either pressurized air or nitrogen. As the shock absorbs bounce, the fluid contacts the gas, causing 14ad resistance and dampening the spring action.

4. Jack your vehicle in an appropriate location: Park your car on a level surface and loosen the lug nuts on both sides of the front or back end. Secure your vehicle with ramps and/or jack stands. Check your owner's manual for the correct jack positioning. When you've got the car up, remove the wheels and locate the shocks.

Shocks will be affixed with a vertical bolt that has to be extracted from within the engine bay or the trunk, or may be positioned at the top by a horizontal bolt that has to be unfastened and knocked out of position.

5. Check the shock mountings and spray them with metal cleaner: The most difficult part of the job is removing the old shocks, which can have a tendency to be really gunky with both age and road-grit, making the bushings and bolts somewhat difficult to remove. Check out the mountings to see if they're loose enough to get off, or if you're likely to crack the rubber around the bushing. It's ok if you do, since you're changing out the shock anyway, but it's usually easier to spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster in there and let it sit for a few minutes to try to loosen things up before you get to work.

PART TWO

Removing the Old Shocks

1. Remove bolts from the shock tower: Lots of cars have the top bolts under the fabric in the trunk of the car, which means you'll have to lift up the lining to get to the shock bolts and remove them with a ratchet and socket. As always, consult your shop manual for more specific guidelines regarding the location of the shock tower bolts. In general, though, they'll be in the trunk.

To unfasten the bolts, turn the socket and ratchet counterclockwise, greasing the b a45 olts with penetrating fluid to eliminate any surface rust, if necessary.

2. Disconnect the shock from the suspension: Use a socket set or a nut splitter to disengage the nut that connecting the shock to the suspension, and remove it from the bolt. If there isn't enough room to operate the splitter, you can apply penetrating solvent.

Depending on the assembly, you may also need to disengage the knuckle at the top of brake assembly to get the the shock. Consult your owner's manual to find out for sure. Use the same process to remove the nut that is positioned at the top and keep the nuts separate so you will know which one goes where when it is time to install your new shocks.

3. Remove the shock absorber from the bottom and top bolts: Wiggling the shock off the bolts can be surprisingly difficult, especially if the shocks are mounted on studs with a retaining bracket and everything's rusty. Wiggle it around a while and it should come off eventually.

One common frustration occurs when your piston rod keeps turning with you as you're trying to loosen the nut. You can use locking pliers on the end of the rod and keep it from turning with the pliers while loosening the nut with a wrench, but that can be just as frustrating. There's a hollow hex kit that fits over the rod and a tailored wrench made for the purpose, available at any auto parts store for about eleven bucks.

If you need to bang on the bolt with a hammer or the end of your wrench to get it loose, that's ok, but make sure you put one the nuts back on to use as a hitting surface. Don't risk misaligning the bolt and messing up your ability to reinstall the shock properly. Let the metal cleaner do its work and take your time. It'll give.

Installing New Shocks

1. Fit the new shock back onto the suspension control arm: You might need to use some pressure to constrict the shock as it falls into place, and you might need a help to help lift the suspension back up to reinstall the bolts in the correct positions. It can be kind of a balancing act, so it helps to have another set of hands. Screw on the nuts hand tight.

2. If needed, you may once again affix the anti-roll bar if you removed it earlier: Reattach it and screw the bolts back on hand-tight. Replace the shock tower nuts you removed at the beginning of the process, probably in the trunk of the vehicle.

3. Check your torque specs in the service manual: Before you go tightening everything back down, recheck the specifications for torque to be sure everything's secure.

4. Repeat the steps to replace the other 3 shock absorbers, if necessary: Most of the shocks should wear out at the same time, so if you're going to do one, you're probably going to end up doing them all. Do in following the same steps and then put the wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts to finish the job.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Change Your Air Filter

Any part of the car that takes in fluids or air from the environment should have a way of separating the good from the bad, of taking in only what benefits the mechanism and leaving the rest behind. This is why cars have air filters and fuel filters. True, they require regular looking after but this is one of the simplest and least expensive — and most important — maintenance procedures you can perform for your car. Changing your car's filters on a regular basis can have a significant impact on engine life and performance.

We'd like to walk you through a basic filter change. It doesn't take long, saves you money, and sends your car down the road refreshed and renewed. A clogged air or fuel filter can cause poor performance, poor fuel mileage and reduced engine life. This simple procedure guards against that.

How often should you do this? Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommended intervals. If the manual's not available, a good rule of thumb is: air filter replacement every 12 months or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first); fuel filter replacement every 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever comes first).

Changing the Air Filter

If nothing else, learn how to change your own air filter. It's quick and easy and saves you money.

Steps for changing the air filter
1. Pop the hood and gather your tools
2. Locate the air filter
3. Open the air filter casing
4. Pull out the air filter
5. Inspect the air filter
6. Install the new air filter

Pop the hood and gather your tools
First, park your car in the shade and pop the hood. Prop it up so it doesn't bang you in the head, then let the engine cool for a few minutes.

While it's cooling, go get your tools. You'll need very few for this procedure — grab a butter knife, two medium-sized screwdrivers, one standard and one Phillips, and head back to the car.

Locate the air filter
The air filter is typically enclosed in a black plastic casing near the center-top of the engine (sometimes, however, it will be off to the side). It should be the largest non-metal assembly you see, about the size of a breadbox. Find it? Good. Now, open it.

Open the air filter casing
How? Well, most of them are held together by a couple of large metal clips on the side. Slide the butter knife or flat-headed screwdriver between the casing and the clip and then pry the clip away. Continue around the case's perimeter, loosening all the retaining clips which should allow you to open the case up. Occasionally you'll find an air filter housing that's held together with several long screws, in which case you'll have to unscrew them to get at the filter.

Should you own an older car (especially an American one) or truck, it might have a circular air filter (that's shaped like a big donut) located under a likewise circular metal housing sitting right on top of the engine. These are usually accessed via a simple, single wing nut atop the cleaner.

Anyway, crack it open and you'll find the air filter inside. It's usually white, bright yellow, orange or red, the better to see the collected dirt.

Pull out the air filter
Pull out the filter — it's typically flat and/or elongated, and is made of a paper element with rubber edges to seal it against the casing.

Inspect the air filter
Next, check it for cleanliness. Hold it up to the sunlight and (while keeping it at arm's length from your face) bend it back, so the paper ridges of the filter flutter like the pages of a book, and look inside the crevices. Do you see a lot of accumulated dirt and grime? Now look at it straight on. Is the orange or yellow paper mostly dirty in the center? If so, then you should replace it.

Install the new air filter
Close up the casing and put the old air filter in a plastic bag. You're going to want to bring it with you to the AutoFactorNG to compare old with new and make sure you get the right replacement. Toss it in the car and go clean up. By the way, it's okay to drive a car short distances without an air filter (something you can't do with a missing fuel filter).

Here's what you need to buy at the AutoFactorNG:

• New air filter
• New fuel filter
• New gasket(s) for the fuel filter — they normally come with them, but ask to be sure

When you get back home install the new air filter. Seal it up and you're done.

Fuel Filter Replacement

Steps for changing the fuel filter
1. Find the air filter
2. Extinguish any smoking materials
3. Remove any plastic coverings
4. Locate the fuel line
5. Plug the fuel line
6. Remove the old fuel filter
7. Install the new fuel filter
8. Check if you need to replace the hoses
9. Run the engine and confirm that no fuel is leaking

Find the air filter
This is a little tougher than replacing an air filter, since finding the thing can be half the battle. It's typically located near the top-center of the engine, close to the air filter, although sometimes, with more modern cars, it's actually built into the fuel tank and is a job best suited to your mechanic.

Extinguish any smoking materials
First, if you value your life, extinguish any smoking materials while doing this procedure.

Remove any plastic coverings
Second, for better access, remove any oversized, plastic coverings from the top of the engine. They usually come off with a large, flat-head screwdriver.

Locate the fuel line
Now search for the fuel line, which comes from the rear of the car. It's about the same diameter as a finger, and will be soft and pliant at this location, not a hard metal shaft. It will come into the fuel filter from the rear of the vehicle.

Plug the fuel line
Find it? Okay, now grab a couple of # 2 pencils. You'll also need several different sized screwdrivers, both flat-head and Phillips, and a small ratchet set.

The fuel line will normally be secured to the fuel filter with a little clamp. Work it off with a screwdriver — usually a Phillips — and then jam the pointed end of a pencil into the free end to keep gasoline from spilling out. You may need a larger diameter object than a pencil, so you'll have to be resourceful here, since we don't know what you have lying around in your junk drawer at home.

Remove the old fuel filter
After you've plugged the fuel line, you can remove the fuel filter. It's normally secured with a couple small bolts. Find the right-sized socket and remove the filter. It will also have a hose coming off the other end (this goes to the engine), so remove this one the same way you did the other one, and plug it with another pencil.

Compare the new filter with the old filter, and make sure you position it in the same way, so that the fuel is flowing in the right way. Sometimes there's an arrow on the filter showing you which direction the fuel flows.

Install the new fuel filter
Put the assembly together in the reverse order that you used to take it apart. Before you do, though, take a quick look at the new filter.

You'll note that there two metal (or plastic) shafts coming off the filter where the hoses attach. They have little nubs or ridges near the ends. Make sure to slide the rubberized lines onto the filter as far past the nubs as you can get them.

Also, pay special attention to the clamps on either end of the filter. Position them between the nubs and the body of the filter. Then get them snugged down good and tight (but not so tight as to strip the screw), to prevent leakage.

Check if you need to replace the hoses
One last thing. If the hoses are getting brittle and frayed, make a mental note to buy some new hoses next time you change your filter. If they're really bad, replace them now.

Run the engine and confirm that no fuel is leaking
After you have everything reassembled and secure, run the engine for a few minutes. Inspect the hoses and connections to make sure no fuel is leaking.

That's it!

Remember, next to changing your oil and oil filter, replacing your air and fuel filters on a regular basis is the single most important act of maintenance you can perform for your engine. Do it and your engine will thank you by giving you many thousands of trouble-free miles.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor

Common signs include running rich at idle or lean under load, decrease in fuel efficiency, and rough idles.

Mass Airflow Sensors (MAF) have the responsibility of reporting the amount of air entering the engine to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM also uses this input to calculate the amount of engine load.

There are several designs of MAF sensors, but the most common, by far, is the hot wire MAF sensor. The hot wire MAF has two sensing wires. One wire is heated and the other is not. The microprocessor (computer) inside the MAF determines the amount of air entering the engine by how much current is required to keep the hot wire about 200 ℉ hotter than the cold wire. Whenever the temperature difference between the two sensing wires changes, the MAF will either increase or decrease the current to the heated wire. This equates to more air into the engine or less air into the engine.

There are a number of driveability issues that arise from faulty MAF sensors.

1. Runs rich at idle or lean under load

These symptoms indicate a MAF that has a contaminated hot wire. The contamination comes in the form of spider webs, potting compound from the MAF sensor itself, dirt that gets attached to oil on the MAF from an over-oiled aftermarket air filter, and more. Anything that acts like insulation to the hot wire will cause this type of issue. The fix is as simple as cleaning the MAF sensor with an approved cleaner, which the technicians at AutoFactorNG can do for you if they determine that this is your root problem.

2. Constantly runs rich or lean

A MAF sensor that continuously over-reports or under-reports airflow into the engine will cause an engine to run rich or lean. If the engine control system is working correctly, you will probably never notice this except for a change in fuel economy. A trained technician will have to look at fuel trim status with the use of a scan tool to verify this. A MAF sensor that behaves like this will require replacement. Before replacing the sensor, however, the rest of the circuit should be checked for proper operation. If the circuit (wire) has an issue, replacing the sensor will not solve your problem.

3. Rough idle or stalls

A completely failed MAF sensor will not send any airflow information to the PCM. This prevents the PCM from accurately controlling fuel, which will result in an engine that either will idle roughly or not at all. Obviously, replacing the MAF sensor is needed in this cases.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Change Your Brake Pads

Are you hearing a nasty screech when you press the brake pedal in your car? Does it sound like rock monsters are playing the world's loudest frame of bowling every time you need to slow down? Well, it may be time to change your brakes.

You will be pleasantly surprised to find that you can change your car's disc brake pads quickly, easily and without specialized tools. Doing it yourself also will save you a lot of money. But even if you're not interesting in doing this yourself, knowing what's involved makes it easier to understand what your mechanic may someday tell you.

Nearly all cars these days have front disc brakes. Front brakes usually wear out more quickly than the rear brakes (which could either be disc or drum brakes), so they need to be changed more often. You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you press the brake pedal. But noise alone isn't always the best indicator, so it's best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads.

Note: If the front end of the car vibrates when you apply the brakes, your brake rotors may be warped. If the rotors appear grooved or uneven, they may be scored. In either case the rotors may also need to be replaced or "turned" on a brake lathe, a procedure not covered here. You may need a professional's help for this, but you can see what's involved in a rotor change by looking here.

Time Required: 1 hour

Tools Required

- Disposable mechanic's gloves to protect your hands and keep them clean
- Jack and jack stands
- Lug wrench
- C-clamp or length of wood to retract the piston
- Wrench (choose a socket, open end or adjustable wrench)
- Turkey baster for drawing out brake fluid
- Plastic tie, bungee cord or piece of string

Materials Required

- New brake pads — Since you are saving money by doing this yourself, you might want to consider splurging a bit by buying original manufacturer brake pads, which are more expensive.
- Can of brake fluid — check your owner's manual for the proper type.

A couple of things to note before you begin


Know your calipers: The majority of cars have a "sliding caliper" brake assembly. That's what's shown in the photo above. Compare this brake assembly to the one in your car. Other cars have "fixed caliper" assemblies. The pads in fixed-caliper brakes are also easy to change but the process is slightly different, so we'll cover it in another instructional piece.

Do one side, then the other: For reasons that will be clear later, you should change the pads on one side of the car from start to finish before doing the other side. Also, since you're doing one side at a time, turn the steering wheel so that the wheel you're working on is angled out for better access to the brakes.

Now we can get started.

Steps for changing your brake pads

1. Remove the wheel
2. Remove the slider bolt
3. Pivot the caliper up
4. Slide out the old brake pads
5. Replace the retaining clips
6. Slide in the new brake pads
7. Retract the pistons
8. Monitor the brake fluid level
9. Reposition the caliper
10. Reinstall the slider bolt
11. Repeat for the other side
12. Test-drive under safe conditions

Remove the wheel

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Then jack up the car and place a jack stand under the car's frame. Lower the jack so its weight rests on the jack stand. Fully remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. You now have access to the brake assembly and can safely reach under the car.

Remove the slider bolt

Find the two slider bolts (sometimes called "pins") that hold the caliper in place. On this car, a 2009 Ford Flex, the bolts are on the inside. The arrows in the photograph above point them out. It's generally only necessary to remove the lower bolt. It can be long but once it is fully loosened, it will slide out easily.

Pivot the caliper up

With the bottom bolt removed, the caliper pivots up, as shown in the photograph above. The rubber hose, which is the hydraulic line, will flex to allow this so do not disconnect any hydraulic lines. If you think you have to disconnect a hydraulic line, you're doing something wrong. Reassemble the brakes and seek professional help.

At this point, it is very easy to inspect the thickness of the brake pads to confirm that they need to be changed. Most brake pads have metal wear indicators, which are small metal tabs that squeak when they contact the rotors. Even if these are not yet touching, the pads are worn out if the friction material is 1/8th of an inch thick or less at any point.

Slide out the old brake pads

The brake pads are now exposed and the retaining clips hold them loosely in place. Simply slide the old brake pads out, as shown in the photo.

In the above photo, you can see a comparison of the new, thicker brake pad (top), next to the old, worn-down brake pad (bottom).

Replace the retaining clips

The photo above shows the pad's new retaining clips. New pads almost always come with new clips, which allow the pads to slide back and forth easily. Use the new ones and chuck the old ones. There are no retaining screws for the clips. They just snap in place. There are usually left-handed and right-handed clips, so change one at a time, making sure they match up exactly as you go.

Often, a small packet of graphite-based grease will come with the brake pads. Apply this to the clips of the new brake pads to keep them from squeaking, as shown in the photo above.

This photo shows that the new brake pad has a riveted-on shim, which is the thin metal plate. Some brake pads might have unattached shims that have to be temporarily held in position until you lock the pads in place. The "ears" are the metal tabs on either end of the brake pad (only the two left ears are visible here). These ears fit into the slots in the clips. Some of the grease can be applied to the ears and between any loose metal shims, too.

Slide in the new brake pads

The new pads slide into place as easily as the old ones did when they came out, though sometimes the new clips will be tighter. The ears of the new pads should slot nicely into place on the grease you applied.

Retract the pistons

In the photo above, the arrows point to the pistons. These pistons press on the brake pads and squeeze the rotor to stop the car. Your car might only have one piston for each wheel, but the principle is the same. Before you can lower the caliper into place, these pistons need to be retracted (pushed back) so that they will clear the new, thicker brake pads.

Do-it-yourselfers often use a C-clamp to retract the piston or pistons. In this case, we simply levered the piston back using a 2x4 and a piece of plywood. By doing this, the brake fluid in the pistons is being pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir through tiny passages, so the pistons move slowly. The width of the 2x4 allows both pistons to be pushed in at once. If you pushed in one by itself, the other would pop out — you don't want that. Fortunately, most cars have just one piston per caliper, which makes things far simpler. Either way, steady pressure and patience are key here. In this example, we added a second plywood shim near the end of the process to fill the ever-increasing gap. Throughout, take the utmost care to ensure you don't nick or tear the rubber boot and seal that encircles the pistons.

Monitor the brake fluid level

When you push the pistons back, the brake fluid level slowly rises. Open the master cylinder reservoir and check it often. This is more of a concern when you work on the second brake, because the combined fluid volume of two calipers could cause the brake fluid to overflow. If it looks like this is going to happen, suck out some of the brake fluid with a turkey baster. There is more danger of overflowing if someone topped off the fluid level during regular service visits. (This is why the brake fluid reservoir shouldn't necessarily be topped off like that.) The fluid level naturally goes down as the pads wear. And it comes back up when the pads are replaced. As long as the level doesn't go below "MIN," the arrow shown in the photo above, on the lower half of the reservoir, everything is cool.

Reposition the caliper

With the pistons retracted, the caliper should slip over the pads with little effort. Sometimes the fit is tight and the caliper will slide on the newly installed brake pads. If the pistons catch on the brake pads, you might need to check that you retracted the piston completely.

Reinstall the slider bolt

Reinstall and retighten the slider bolt. Straighten the car's wheels, re-mount the tire and tighten the lug nuts.

Repeat for the other side

Repeat all these steps for the other side of the front brakes. Remember that the brake fluid will be higher in the reservoir now that new pads are installed on one side, so keep your eye on the fluid level as you retract the piston on the other side. The fluid will only rise further the second time around. You don't want it to overflow since the brake fluid is highly corrosive. If it looks as if the fluid will overflow, suck some out with the turkey baster. If the level is below the "MAX" when both sides are done, add fresh fluid to top things off to the line.

Test-drive under safe conditions

Test-drive the car under safe conditions to make sure everything is working properly, being especially careful for the first few stops. Be aware that your brake pedal might have a higher engagement point. You will quickly get used to this change. Enjoy using your new brakes knowing there are now thick brake pads to stop you safely.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing AC Condenser

If your AC is cooling your car significantly less than usual or there are leaks from the AC system, you may need to replace your AC condenser.

The AC condenser is a very important component found on virtually all modern automotive AC systems. Its primary function is to convert the refrigerant coming from the compressor from a high temperature, high pressure vapor into a high pressure liquid through condensation. Similar to how the cooling system radiator functions, the vehicle moves cool air passes through the condenser fins, cooling the refrigerant as it passes through until it is liquified. The cooled liquid refrigerant is what is used to cool the cabin when the AC is turned on.

As all of the AC system’s refrigerant passes directly through the condenser, if there is any problem with the condenser, it can negatively affect the operation of the entire system and should be replaced if necessary. There will usually be a few ways to spot a bad or failing condenser.

Significantly reduced cooling

One of the first symptoms of a failed or failing AC compressor is reduced cooling. If the condenser is damaged in any way and results in the restriction of refrigerant flow, then the entire cooling system will work less efficiently. If the refrigerant cannot flow properly, then the amount of cool air that the system can produce will be significantly reduced.

Noticeable leaks

A more obvious sign of condenser failure will be a noticeable leak. Over time, the condenser can begin to leak either due to age or damage. When the condenser leaks, depending where and how big the leak is, all of the high pressure refrigerant can and will eventually leak out, disabling the entire AC system. When it begins to leak it must be replaced as a whole since the condenser is one piece.

If you suspect that you may be having a problem with your AC condenser, then have it looked at by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. If necessary, they will be able to replace your AC condenser, as it is a critical component to the operation of the vehicle’s AC system.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Service You Car

Much money can be saved when you go the Do It Yourself (DIY) route in servicing your car. The added benefit is that you get to use top quality components and have done a thorough job.

It really is quite simple to perform a basic full service and does not require any more than the ability to tighten or loosen a nut or screw!

Regular servicing of your car is important to keep the mechanics of your vehicle in good working order, to prolong it’s life and to keep it safe.

 It’s rather common place to miss out a service here and there simply to cut down on expenses. Servicing your car can be a costly affair, especially if you cover high mileage every year, so why not try it yourself?
By servicing your own car, you’re likely to save at least 2⁄3 of the price a garage would charge you. A basic car service is a relatively easy procedure. This guide explains how to service a car.

CAR MAINTENANCE
Consult your cars manufacturers handbook if you have one as this should provide details on when to service your car. If the manufacturers guide is not available, generally a car should be serviced anywhere from 6,000 to 10,000 miles or once a year if under that mileage. Regular home car maintenance should include:

• Checking oil levels
• Engine coolant levels
• Hydraulic brake fluid levels
• Windscreen washer refilling
• Tyre pressures and tyre damage such as cuts and bulges. The tyre tread depth should be at least 1.6mm around the entire circumference of the centre 3⁄4 breadth of the tyre. Also check for safety markers. 
• Indicators, brake, rear and head lights

CAR SERVICE CHECKLIST
In order to service your car, a car service checklist will need to be compiled. A servicing checklist can often be found in your cars service manual or documents. If this information isn’t available use the car service tool checklist below:

• Oil filter wrench/removal tool
• Spark plug removal tool
• Socket set or spanner for removing the sump plug for oil drainage
• Screwdriver for unscrewing air filter case if applicable. Clips may be the case alternatively
• Car jack and axle stands
• Radiator Coolant tester
• Oil catch pan

Axle stands

CAR AXLE STANDS
Axle stands are cheap to purchase from hardware stores such as AutoFactorNG

CAR SERVICE PARTS CHECKLIST:

• Engine oil – consult your cars manufactures guide for the correct oil type
• Oil filter – use a quality branded filter
• Sump plug washer – use a new sump plug washer and not the old one
• Spark plugs – again good quality branded plugs
• Air filter
• Radiator Coolant if applicable

An oil filter wrench / removal tool

OIL FILTER WRENCH / REMOVAL TOOL
An oil filter wrench / removal tool can be purchased inexpensively in many vehicle hardware stores or easily from the internet. Wrenches are designed to fit all car filters.



ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Let’s start with the engine oil change. The engine oil needs to be warm before draining as warm oil will flow more freely than cold. Run the engine for 15 minutes or so before drainage. Ensure you perform the oil change on a level surface.

Jack the car up and axle stands for safety. Remove the oil cap on the top side of the engine. Failure to do this may cause a vacuum when draining the oil, resulting in not all the oil being removed. Place the oil catch pan under the sump plug and drain. The engine oil may be hot so be careful.

OIL FILTER
Turn the oil filter wrench anti-clock wise to remove the filter. The filter may still have plenty of oil inside so be careful not to spill oil. Ensure the filter seat on the engine is clean and place a light coating of oil on the gasket of the new filter. Initially screw the oil filter back on and gently tighten with the oil filter wrench. Ensure not to over-tighten for risk of damaging screw thread.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE CONTINUED
The oil can take several minutes to fully drain. When the engine is fully drained, replace the sump plug using a new washer and refill the engine with oil. It is important to refill the engine with oil slowly making regular checks of the engine oil level indicator on the cars dipstick. The last thing you want to do is have to drain the oil again by over filling the engine. Once the oil level is a little below the maximum marker on the dipstick, replace the oil cap start and run your engine for around 10 minutes. Turn off the engine and check once again the oil level using the dipstick. Finally make a check for any leakages on the sump plug.

HOW TO DISPOSE OF ENGINE OIL
Disposing of engine oil onto the ground is highly toxic and can enter the water table. It is also illegal to dispose of oil in the garbage and down storm drains. Used engine oil needs to be disposed of responsibly by locating your nearest waste oil recycling bank.

ENGINE COOLANT / RADIATOR COOLANT
An integral part of an engine is the cooling system. Around one third of the energy produced by car engines is wasted due to it being converted to heat. The correct mixture of engine coolant is essential to not only keeping an engine from freezing in the winter, but from overheating in the summer, and to prevent the corrosion of internal components. See what is engine coolant for a guide on exactly what coolant does, the various types, what type of coolant you should use when servicing your car and how to check engine coolant levels.

CHANGE SPARK PLUGS
Before removing the old spark plugs, ensure there is no debris around the chamber that may fall into the ignition chamber. Using a good quality brand with a copper core electrodes, insert the plugs until hand-tight. Continue to tighten the plugs with the spark plug removal tool for a further 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 turn of the tool ensuring that you don’t over-tighten as this may result in thread damage.

AIR FILTER
Fitting a new air filter is a simple process. The air filter housing may be secured by screws or simply clipped on. The new air filter simply needs to be dropped in.

RADIATOR COOLANT
Ensure the engine has cooled sufficiently before opening the cap on the coolant reservoir. Coolant tanks can be under pressure with boiling hot water contained. The colour of the liquid should be blue, green or pink depending on the Radiator coolant's colour. Any other discolouration or oil in the coolant tank should be investigated by a specialist. A Radiator coolant tester is cheap and easy to use. It will contain instructions on how to use and to maintain the correct level.

ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE CHECKS
When changing the spark plugs, check the leads for any sign of deterioration. A good set of leads should last for well over 10 years. Timing and cam belts should be checked for signs of wear and tear. These belts don’t usually need changing with each service although renewing them regularly will decrease the risk of engine damage.

WHAT OIL FOR MY CAR
There are 3 main types of engine oil that can be used in your car.

1. Fully synthetic engine oil
2. Semi synthetic engine oil

Fully synthetic engine oil is essentially artificially made. It’s purpose is to last longer than conventional oil before the components break down. This means that the oil life span will last longer between engine oil changes. Another advantage is that fully synthetic oils withstand higher and lower temperatures better than convention engine oils by retaining it’s original structure in extremes, therefore reducing engine wear. The disadvantage with fully synthetic engine oil is it is significantly more expensive than semi synthetic and traditional engine oils.

Semi synthetic engine oil is a combination of fully synthetic and traditional engine oil. Semi synthetic offer many of the advantages of fully synthetic but at a lower cost.

WHICH ENGINE OIL SHOULD I USE
As a general guide, a typical modern family car will run just fine on semi synthetic engine oil. High performance engines are better suited to fully synthetic engine oils.

CAR SERVICE COST
The cost of servicing your car can vary significantly. A basic car service will be significantly cheaper than a full service

BASIC CAR SERVICE
A basic car service may include but not limited to:

Engine oil change
Air filter
Oil filter
Spark plug change

The above is a very basic service. Many garages are likely to include more in their basic service.

FULL CAR SERVICE
A full car service may include but not limited to:

• Engine oil change
• Transmission fluid
• Spark plug change
• Windscreen washer fluid
• Power steering fluid
• Fan belts
• Radiator Coolant
• Air filter
• Pollen filter
• PCV valve
• Windscreen wipers
• General lubrication
• Oil filter
• Battery check
• Brakes check
• Brake fluid check
• Tyre pressures / safety check
• Fuel filter
• Lights check
• Steering and suspension check
• Exhaust check

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Anti-Lock Fuse Or Relay

Common signs include the ABS Light turning on, tires locking up regularly, and a blown fuse.

Virtually all automotive systems that are electrical in nature run their power through some sort of system of fuses or relays and the ABS is no exception. Because fuses are essentially a bridge for power in electrical circuits, when they fail they can cause all sorts of problems for their respective systems and should be replaced. Fuses are usually installed into smaller individual circuits with low current draw, while relays are more commonly used for higher amperage circuits.

When they fail, they can cause all sorts of problems for the system that they were providing power for. Specifically, when the fuses and relays of the ABS system fail, usually the vehicle will display a few symptoms that can alert the driver that there may be a problem with an ABS fuse or relay.

1. Illuminated ABS Light

One of the first symptoms of a blown fuse or relay is an illuminated ABS Light. The ABS Light will become illuminated once the computer has detected that there is a problem with the system. If a fuse blows, or a relay fails, the computer will pick up the signal and activate the Check Engine Light to alert the driver that a problem has occurred. An ABS Light can occur for a wide variety of reasons, so if it does come on, have the vehicle scanned for codes to help shed some light on what the problem may be.

2. Tires are locking up regularly

Another symptom of a possible problem with a fuse or relay is a malfunctioning ABS system. More specifically, a failed relay may cause the ABS symptom to act up. If the relay is unable to adequately supply the ABS system’s electrical needs, it may cause the system to malfunction. In some cases, the ABS system may even activate at random times, sometimes even while the vehicle is in motion.

3. Blown fuse

One of the most obvious symptoms of a fuse or relay problem is a blown fuse. Fuses are designed to handle a specified amount of amperage, and are designed in a way that if the set amount is exceeded, the fuse will literally blow to protect the circuit. Close inspection of a blown fuse should reveal a dark and perhaps cloudy appearance on the inside of the fuse. The wire inside of the fuse should also be visibly split when the fuse is blown. A blown fuse will usually deactivate the entire system, or at the very least the circuit that it was responsible for powering.

Because the anti-Lock fuse and relays are what power the entire ABS system, they are very important electrical components to any vehicle. For this reason, if you suspect that your ABS fuse or relay may have failed, have a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG, diagnose the electrical system to determine if the car needs the anti-lock fuse or relay replaced.

Six Ways You Could be Killing Your Car Slowly

Owning a car can be a dream or a nightmare depending on how well you take care of your vehicle, the following are six things that many motorists do that can harm their car and their wallet.

1. Ignoring the check engine light: Ignoring an illuminated check engine light can result in serious engine trouble and costly repairs. At the very least, this warning light could alert you to an engine problem that is negatively impacting fuel economy.

2. Failing to change fluids and filters.Many fluids are required for the operation and protection of vehicle systems and components. Checking fluid levels regularly, along with the filters, helps ensure that your vehicle runs dependably and extends vehicle life.

3. Neglecting your tires. Your vehicle’s tires should be checked frequently for inflation and tread depth. Under inflated tires can wear out more quickly, needing to be replaced sooner, and can negatively impact safety, gas mileage and performance.

4. Not following a service schedule.Because many car parts and components wear out or become damaged over time, vehicles need to be routinely serviced in order to perform optimally. Routine inspections and timely repairs will help keep your car running efficiently and will help you avoid more expensive repairs down the road.

5. Keeping a dirty car. Allowing your car to go too long without a wash leads to buildup of damaging chemicals and dirt, increases the potential for rust from road salt and interferes with proper visibility needed for safe driving.

6. Being a severe driver. Whether it’s stop-and-go traffic, extreme weather, rough roads or heavy loads, it can sometimes be difficult to limit severe driving conditions. However, you can drive smart and improve fuel economy by observing the speed limit; avoiding aggressive driving, including quick starts and stops; not hauling unnecessary items; and keeping your vehicle properly tuned.

Auto care isn’t always a top priority for car owners, hardly do they realize they are doing things that adversely affect the performance, safety and value of their car. Routine maintenance can go a long way toward saving money, avoiding headaches and protecting your vehicle investment.”

For your Genuine Car Parts, Visit www.autofactorng.com We will not only give you a Guarantee on our Genuine Car parts, we have certified Auto-Technicians who are readily available to help you with your car troubles.

Also, you can Join us on Tuesdays and Thursdays on Twitter for our Online Car Diagnostics Program from 10:00am –  01:00pm. This Service is absolutely FREE. Don’t let your Local mechanic fool you with jargons. Let’s put you through the dynamics of your car!