Symptoms of Bad or Failing Intake Manifold Gaskets

Common signs include the engine constantly overheating, coolant leaking, engine misfires, and a decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel economy.

The intake manifold gaskets are some of the most important gaskets found on an engine. Gaskets are the seals placed between engine components before they are assembled in order to provide a reliable seal. They can be made of paper, rubber, metal, and sometimes a combination of the three.

The intake manifold gaskets are responsible for sealing the intake manifold against the cylinder head(s). Apart from sealing engine vacuum, certain designs will also seal engine coolant. When the intake manifold gaskets have an issue, they can cause drivability problems and even engine overheating. Usually a faulty intake manifold gasket will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue.

1. Engine misfires and decrease in power, acceleration, and fuel economy

One of the most common symptoms of an issue with intake manifold gaskets is engine performance issues. As the vehicle acquires mileage, the intake manifold gaskets may wear out and eventually leak. This can cause major performance issues, as the intake manifold gaskets seal engine vacuum and pressure. A vacuum leak caused by a bad intake manifold gasket can throw off the engine’s air-fuel ratio and cause engine performance issues such as misfires, a decrease in power and acceleration, a reduction in fuel efficiency, and even stalling.

2. Coolant leaks

Another symptom of a faulty intake manifold gasket is coolant leaks. Some intake manifold gaskets also seal engine coolant, and if the gasket wears out it may lead to a coolant leak. This may produce a distinct coolant smell, along with steam, and drips or puddles of coolant underneath the vehicle. Coolant leaks should be addressed as soon as possible, in order to prevent them from becoming a greater issue.

3. Engine overheating

Engine overheating is another symptom of a possible issue with the intake manifold gaskets. A coolant leak will eventually lead to engine overheating when the coolant level drops too low, however there are instances where overheating can occur without any visible leaks. If the intake manifold gaskets leak coolant into the intake manifold the engine may overheat as a result, without any visible external leaks. Any coolant leaks should be addressed as soon as possible to prevent the possibility of serious engine damage occurring due to a bad intake manifold gasket.

While a faulty intake manifold gasket will produce symptoms that quickly alert the driver of an issue, there can be instances where a leak is difficult to detect. If you suspect that your intake manifold gasket or gaskets may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician from AutoFactorNG to determine if the gasket should be replaced.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Engine Mount

Common signs include impact noises, excessive vibrations, and engine movement.

Engine mounts are the component responsible for securing the engine of a vehicle to the chassis. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit a wide variety of needs, but they all serve the same purpose of mounting the engine and dampening engine vibration. They are usually made of metal and rubber. Metal is used to be able to withstand the force and torque generated by the engine, and rubber is used to absorb and dampen the vibrations. As engines generate a considerable amount of vibration in their regular operation, when there is a problem with the motor mounts, it can usually be quite noticeable. Usually problematic motor mounts will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue that should be serviced.

1. Impact noises coming from the engine bay

One of the most common symptoms associated with worn engine mounts are impact noises coming from the engine bay. Worn, damaged, or broken motor mounts can cause clunking, banging, and other impact type sounds as a result of the weight of the engine shifting excessively to the point of contact.

2. Excessive vibrations

Another symptom of a bad or failing motor mount is excessive vibration. If the rubber or vibration dampening parts of the motor mount wear out or break, it will significantly reduce the mounts ability to absorb engine vibrations. Undamped engine vibrations will cause the entire vehicle to vibrate, which may make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers.

3. Engine movement

Another symptom of bad or failing engine mounts is an engine that moves in the engine bay. If the engine mounts are in good condition, they should be able to secure the engine firmly in the engine bay. If they are worn or broken, however, this may result in an engine that will move forward, backwards, or side to side in the engine bay. The movement may be especially pronounced when accelerating, and may also be accompanied by an impact noise of some sort.

Due to the amount of vibration that engines generate as part of their regular operation, motor mounts are an important component on any vehicle. When they fail, this will not only make the cabin uncomfortable for the passengers, it can also place an additional strain that can damage other components. If you suspect that your motor mounts may be having an issue, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. They will be able to look over your vehicle and determine if it needs an engine mount replacement.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Alternator

Common signs include having to jump start the car frequently, dim lights when operating the vehicle, or the Battery Light coming on.

The electrical charging system is one of the most important systems on any vehicle. The charging system is made up of several components, including the alternator and battery, that work together to supply all of the vehicle’s electrical needs. The alternator is what specifically generates the amperage and electricity required to meet the vehicle’s electrical needs, including keeping the battery charged.

Because the alternator plays such a vital role in keeping all of the vehicle’s electrical components powered, any problems with the alternator can quickly develop into problems with another system or component on the vehicle. Usually, a defective or failing alternator will produce a few symptoms that can alert the driver of a potential issue, allowing time for the driver to service the vehicle before a bigger problem occurs.

1. Having to jump start the vehicle on a regular basis

One of the first symptoms of a bad or failing alternator is the need to jump start the vehicle on a regular basis. It is the job of the battery to provide the power to crank the engine and start the vehicle, however, it is the job of the alternator to make sure that the battery stays charged. If the alternator is beginning to have problems or has failed, it will not be able to meet the vehicle’s electrical needs, including keeping the battery fully charged. A low or uncharged battery will not be able to keep up with the load required to start an engine multiple times, and will result in a dead battery. Continuously having to jump start the vehicle may be a sign that the alternator may not be charging the battery and is therefore unable to successfully start a vehicle.

2. Dim lights

Another symptom of a potential problem with the alternator is dim or flickering lights. If you notice any sort of flickering or dimming of the lights when operating the vehicle, it may be a sign that the alternator is not generating enough power to keep up with the vehicle’s electrical needs. The dimming or flickering may coincide with certain actions when operating the vehicle, such as dimming when pressing on the gas pedal, turning up the volume on the stereo, or turning on another light. This symptom may be indicative of an alternator that is unable to keep up with the needs of the vehicle’s electrical system while it is running, and when additional loads are placed on it.

3. Battery Light comes on

One of the most common symptoms of a problem with the alternator is an illuminated Battery Light. The Battery Light will usually come on when the computer detects that the system voltage has fallen below a certain requirement. This usually means that the alternator, or perhaps one of its internal components, has failed and it is no longer able to keep up with the vehicle’s electrical requirements, and it has been detected by the computer. An illuminated Battery Light also indicates that the vehicle is now running on limited battery life. Depending on the condition of the battery, and how long the Battery Light has been on, the vehicle should be able to run for a short amount of time before the battery finally dies. At that point, the vehicle will shut off and service will be required.

The alternator is among a vehicle’s most important components, as it essentially serves to provide the electrical supply for the entire vehicle. Any problems with it can quickly translate to problems with starting and running the vehicle, which opens up the possibility of being stranded on the road.

If you suspect that your vehicle may be having a problem with the alternator, or it is displaying any of the symptoms above, [have the battery and alternator carefully inspected] by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. WE will be able to determine if an alternator replacement is necessary, or if another issue needs to be addressed.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Tie Rod End

Common signs include a front end alignment that is off, a shaky or loose steering wheel, and uneven or excessive tire wear.

The job of keeping your wheels and tires driving straight down the road is completed by several components in the suspension system. Whether you have a truck, SUV, or commuter car, they all have tie rod ends that attach to the wheel housing and ensure your vehicle has a smooth and efficient ride every day. However, this component is subject to extreme wear and tear due to the fact that it's used every time the vehicle is in motion. When it wear out or fails, you'll notice a few warning signs that should be inspected by a certified mechanic and replaced if needed.

As the name implies, the tie rod end is attached at the tip of the tie rod and connects the wheels of the vehicle with the steering and suspension components that permit the vehicle to steer. When the tie rod end begins to wear out, it's usually due to impact, constant use on bumpy roads or simple age. Frequently, the part that wears out in the tie rod end is actually the bushing. However, it's advised that you replace the tie rod end completely as metal fatigue can also cause the part to fail. If you have the tie rod ends replaced, it's critical that you remind the mechanic to complete a front end alignment, which will set your wheels to point straight.

Like any other mechanical part, a worn out tie rod end will display a few warning signs or indicators that the part is failing and needs to be replaced. Listed below are a few of these symptoms. If you notice any of these, please contact a mechanic as soon as possible so they may properly diagnose the problem and take corrective action to replace what might be broken.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Battery

A vehicle's battery is one of the most important components to any vehicle. It is responsible for starting the engine, and without it, the vehicle cannot start. Throughout their service life batteries are subject to constant cycles of charging and discharging, as well as high heat conditions from the engine bay where they are most commonly installed. Since they serve the important purpose of getting the engine started, when they do fail, they can leave the vehicle stranded and cause a big inconvenience for the driver, so they should be replaced as soon as possible.

1. Rotten egg smell

One of the first symptoms of a problem with the battery is a rotten egg smell. Conventional acid lead automotive batteries are filled with a mixture of water and sulfuric acid. As the battery wears, some of the acid and water may evaporate which will disturb the mixture. This may cause the battery to overheat or boil, which will produce an unpleasant smell, and even smoking in more severe cases.

2. Slow cranking

One of the first signs of a problem with the battery is a slow cranking engine. If the battery is low, it may not have enough power to turn the engine as quickly as it normally would, and it will crank slowly as a result. Depending on the exact condition of the battery, the engine may crank slowly and still start, or it may not be able to crank fast enough to start at all. A jump start from another vehicle or battery will usually be enough to get the vehicle going for a battery that is cranking slowly.

3. Battery Light comes on

Another symptom of a potential problem with the battery is an illuminated Battery Light. An illuminated Battery Light is a symptom commonly associated with a defective alternator. However, a defective battery can also set it off. The battery not only serves as the power source to start the vehicle, but also as a stable source of power for the entire system. If the battery fails to receive or sustain a charge, even if the alternator is charging the battery, the system will not have a power source to help stabilize the system, and the Battery Light may be activated. The Battery Light will stay on until the battery eventually fails.

4. No power to vehicle electronics

Probably the most common symptom of a battery problem is no power going to the electronics. If a battery goes bad or becomes drained, it may not hold a charge and will not be able to provide power for any of the vehicle’s electronics. Upon entering the vehicle, you may notice that turning the key does not activate the electrical system, or that the lights and switches are not functioning. Usually, a battery drained to this extent will need to be charged or replaced.

The battery in a car serves a very important function, and without it, the vehicle will not be able to start. For this reason, if you have been experiencing slow cranking, or suspect that your battery may be having an issue, you can try checking the battery yourself or have the vehicle's battery diagnosed by a professional battery technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG. They will be able to replace your battery or address any other underlying issues to get your car back to its full function.

Batteries always have an indicator (sight glass) which is present at the top of the battery. Peering into a sight glass lets you know the specific-gravity rating of the acid.

• If there is a green dot inside a black border, the battery is probably not to blame for the engine not starting.
• If only black appears in the sight glass, the battery could be causing your starting problem. Charge the 
• If the sight glass of a maintenance-free battery is clear or light yellow, replace the battery. Do not charge it.

Need Genuine Car Batteries? VISIT AutoFactorNG

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Change Your Shock Absorber

Shock absorbers are essential to a car's performance, giving it a smooth and even ride. However, these vehicle suspensions become worn out over time, causing potholes to become both more severe and difficult to ignore. If your shocks are worn out, you can replace them yourself with a little time and know-how.

PART ONE

1. Make sure you need new shocks: You might have noticed going over potholes and bumps isn't as smooth as it used to be in your ride, which is probably a sign that your shocks are worn out and need replaced. A good easy way to test your shocks and make sure they're worn out enough to be replaced is to push down hard on the trunk or the hood directly above the wheel well. Good shocks should bounce up once and settle relatively quickly. If the body bounces any more than that after pushing, it's time for a new set.

You also need to know if your vehicle uses stand-alone shocks that attach to the vehicle suspension or frame, or if it uses shock-absorber units which integrated into a suspension strut, such as the MacPherson or Chapman strut. Your car may even have a combination, using shocks in the front and struts in the back. Struts can be difficult to replace, so it's best to let a professional handle that job.

2. Purchase new shock absorbers: If you're unsure what type of shock absorbers you need, speak to someone at your local auto parts store or an auto mechanic to be sure you buy the right shock absorbers or piston for your vehicle.

3. Consider upgrading your shocks: You can get identical replacements of the shocks you have in your car currently, but taking the time to change out your shocks is also a good opportunity to perform any upgrades, if you're interested. Performance shocks are appropriate for heavy-use daily drive vehicles, es 487 pecially trucks.

Coil shocks are manufactured with a coiled spring around the body of the shock, which supports the weight of the vehicle and controls the movement of the suspension. These are adjustable, which means you can alter the height of your truck for optimum performance.

Twin-tube shocks have a set of tubes, one inner and one out, that house the piston, along with a layer of shock fluid and air, which can have a tendency to create a foamy, frothy mixture that can affect performance, though some modern variations feature a nitrogen mixture that addresses the issue. These are common on off-road vehicles.

Monotube shocks feature a tube and two pistons, which work essentially like the twin-tube shocks work, with one piston separating the layer of nitrogen from the air. It runs cool and is a popular performance choice for trucks.

Reservoir shocks are filled with fluid, and either pressurized air or nitrogen. As the shock absorbs bounce, the fluid contacts the gas, causing 14ad resistance and dampening the spring action.

4. Jack your vehicle in an appropriate location: Park your car on a level surface and loosen the lug nuts on both sides of the front or back end. Secure your vehicle with ramps and/or jack stands. Check your owner's manual for the correct jack positioning. When you've got the car up, remove the wheels and locate the shocks.

Shocks will be affixed with a vertical bolt that has to be extracted from within the engine bay or the trunk, or may be positioned at the top by a horizontal bolt that has to be unfastened and knocked out of position.

5. Check the shock mountings and spray them with metal cleaner: The most difficult part of the job is removing the old shocks, which can have a tendency to be really gunky with both age and road-grit, making the bushings and bolts somewhat difficult to remove. Check out the mountings to see if they're loose enough to get off, or if you're likely to crack the rubber around the bushing. It's ok if you do, since you're changing out the shock anyway, but it's usually easier to spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster in there and let it sit for a few minutes to try to loosen things up before you get to work.

PART TWO

Removing the Old Shocks

1. Remove bolts from the shock tower: Lots of cars have the top bolts under the fabric in the trunk of the car, which means you'll have to lift up the lining to get to the shock bolts and remove them with a ratchet and socket. As always, consult your shop manual for more specific guidelines regarding the location of the shock tower bolts. In general, though, they'll be in the trunk.

To unfasten the bolts, turn the socket and ratchet counterclockwise, greasing the b a45 olts with penetrating fluid to eliminate any surface rust, if necessary.

2. Disconnect the shock from the suspension: Use a socket set or a nut splitter to disengage the nut that connecting the shock to the suspension, and remove it from the bolt. If there isn't enough room to operate the splitter, you can apply penetrating solvent.

Depending on the assembly, you may also need to disengage the knuckle at the top of brake assembly to get the the shock. Consult your owner's manual to find out for sure. Use the same process to remove the nut that is positioned at the top and keep the nuts separate so you will know which one goes where when it is time to install your new shocks.

3. Remove the shock absorber from the bottom and top bolts: Wiggling the shock off the bolts can be surprisingly difficult, especially if the shocks are mounted on studs with a retaining bracket and everything's rusty. Wiggle it around a while and it should come off eventually.

One common frustration occurs when your piston rod keeps turning with you as you're trying to loosen the nut. You can use locking pliers on the end of the rod and keep it from turning with the pliers while loosening the nut with a wrench, but that can be just as frustrating. There's a hollow hex kit that fits over the rod and a tailored wrench made for the purpose, available at any auto parts store for about eleven bucks.

If you need to bang on the bolt with a hammer or the end of your wrench to get it loose, that's ok, but make sure you put one the nuts back on to use as a hitting surface. Don't risk misaligning the bolt and messing up your ability to reinstall the shock properly. Let the metal cleaner do its work and take your time. It'll give.

Installing New Shocks

1. Fit the new shock back onto the suspension control arm: You might need to use some pressure to constrict the shock as it falls into place, and you might need a help to help lift the suspension back up to reinstall the bolts in the correct positions. It can be kind of a balancing act, so it helps to have another set of hands. Screw on the nuts hand tight.

2. If needed, you may once again affix the anti-roll bar if you removed it earlier: Reattach it and screw the bolts back on hand-tight. Replace the shock tower nuts you removed at the beginning of the process, probably in the trunk of the vehicle.

3. Check your torque specs in the service manual: Before you go tightening everything back down, recheck the specifications for torque to be sure everything's secure.

4. Repeat the steps to replace the other 3 shock absorbers, if necessary: Most of the shocks should wear out at the same time, so if you're going to do one, you're probably going to end up doing them all. Do in following the same steps and then put the wheels back on and tighten the lug nuts to finish the job.

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tips: How To Service You Car

Much money can be saved when you go the Do It Yourself (DIY) route in servicing your car. The added benefit is that you get to use top quality components and have done a thorough job.

It really is quite simple to perform a basic full service and does not require any more than the ability to tighten or loosen a nut or screw!

Regular servicing of your car is important to keep the mechanics of your vehicle in good working order, to prolong it’s life and to keep it safe.

 It’s rather common place to miss out a service here and there simply to cut down on expenses. Servicing your car can be a costly affair, especially if you cover high mileage every year, so why not try it yourself?
By servicing your own car, you’re likely to save at least 2⁄3 of the price a garage would charge you. A basic car service is a relatively easy procedure. This guide explains how to service a car.

CAR MAINTENANCE
Consult your cars manufacturers handbook if you have one as this should provide details on when to service your car. If the manufacturers guide is not available, generally a car should be serviced anywhere from 6,000 to 10,000 miles or once a year if under that mileage. Regular home car maintenance should include:

• Checking oil levels
• Engine coolant levels
• Hydraulic brake fluid levels
• Windscreen washer refilling
• Tyre pressures and tyre damage such as cuts and bulges. The tyre tread depth should be at least 1.6mm around the entire circumference of the centre 3⁄4 breadth of the tyre. Also check for safety markers. 
• Indicators, brake, rear and head lights

CAR SERVICE CHECKLIST
In order to service your car, a car service checklist will need to be compiled. A servicing checklist can often be found in your cars service manual or documents. If this information isn’t available use the car service tool checklist below:

• Oil filter wrench/removal tool
• Spark plug removal tool
• Socket set or spanner for removing the sump plug for oil drainage
• Screwdriver for unscrewing air filter case if applicable. Clips may be the case alternatively
• Car jack and axle stands
• Radiator Coolant tester
• Oil catch pan

Axle stands

CAR AXLE STANDS
Axle stands are cheap to purchase from hardware stores such as AutoFactorNG

CAR SERVICE PARTS CHECKLIST:

• Engine oil – consult your cars manufactures guide for the correct oil type
• Oil filter – use a quality branded filter
• Sump plug washer – use a new sump plug washer and not the old one
• Spark plugs – again good quality branded plugs
• Air filter
• Radiator Coolant if applicable

An oil filter wrench / removal tool

OIL FILTER WRENCH / REMOVAL TOOL
An oil filter wrench / removal tool can be purchased inexpensively in many vehicle hardware stores or easily from the internet. Wrenches are designed to fit all car filters.



ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Let’s start with the engine oil change. The engine oil needs to be warm before draining as warm oil will flow more freely than cold. Run the engine for 15 minutes or so before drainage. Ensure you perform the oil change on a level surface.

Jack the car up and axle stands for safety. Remove the oil cap on the top side of the engine. Failure to do this may cause a vacuum when draining the oil, resulting in not all the oil being removed. Place the oil catch pan under the sump plug and drain. The engine oil may be hot so be careful.

OIL FILTER
Turn the oil filter wrench anti-clock wise to remove the filter. The filter may still have plenty of oil inside so be careful not to spill oil. Ensure the filter seat on the engine is clean and place a light coating of oil on the gasket of the new filter. Initially screw the oil filter back on and gently tighten with the oil filter wrench. Ensure not to over-tighten for risk of damaging screw thread.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE CONTINUED
The oil can take several minutes to fully drain. When the engine is fully drained, replace the sump plug using a new washer and refill the engine with oil. It is important to refill the engine with oil slowly making regular checks of the engine oil level indicator on the cars dipstick. The last thing you want to do is have to drain the oil again by over filling the engine. Once the oil level is a little below the maximum marker on the dipstick, replace the oil cap start and run your engine for around 10 minutes. Turn off the engine and check once again the oil level using the dipstick. Finally make a check for any leakages on the sump plug.

HOW TO DISPOSE OF ENGINE OIL
Disposing of engine oil onto the ground is highly toxic and can enter the water table. It is also illegal to dispose of oil in the garbage and down storm drains. Used engine oil needs to be disposed of responsibly by locating your nearest waste oil recycling bank.

ENGINE COOLANT / RADIATOR COOLANT
An integral part of an engine is the cooling system. Around one third of the energy produced by car engines is wasted due to it being converted to heat. The correct mixture of engine coolant is essential to not only keeping an engine from freezing in the winter, but from overheating in the summer, and to prevent the corrosion of internal components. See what is engine coolant for a guide on exactly what coolant does, the various types, what type of coolant you should use when servicing your car and how to check engine coolant levels.

CHANGE SPARK PLUGS
Before removing the old spark plugs, ensure there is no debris around the chamber that may fall into the ignition chamber. Using a good quality brand with a copper core electrodes, insert the plugs until hand-tight. Continue to tighten the plugs with the spark plug removal tool for a further 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 turn of the tool ensuring that you don’t over-tighten as this may result in thread damage.

AIR FILTER
Fitting a new air filter is a simple process. The air filter housing may be secured by screws or simply clipped on. The new air filter simply needs to be dropped in.

RADIATOR COOLANT
Ensure the engine has cooled sufficiently before opening the cap on the coolant reservoir. Coolant tanks can be under pressure with boiling hot water contained. The colour of the liquid should be blue, green or pink depending on the Radiator coolant's colour. Any other discolouration or oil in the coolant tank should be investigated by a specialist. A Radiator coolant tester is cheap and easy to use. It will contain instructions on how to use and to maintain the correct level.

ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE CHECKS
When changing the spark plugs, check the leads for any sign of deterioration. A good set of leads should last for well over 10 years. Timing and cam belts should be checked for signs of wear and tear. These belts don’t usually need changing with each service although renewing them regularly will decrease the risk of engine damage.

WHAT OIL FOR MY CAR
There are 3 main types of engine oil that can be used in your car.

1. Fully synthetic engine oil
2. Semi synthetic engine oil

Fully synthetic engine oil is essentially artificially made. It’s purpose is to last longer than conventional oil before the components break down. This means that the oil life span will last longer between engine oil changes. Another advantage is that fully synthetic oils withstand higher and lower temperatures better than convention engine oils by retaining it’s original structure in extremes, therefore reducing engine wear. The disadvantage with fully synthetic engine oil is it is significantly more expensive than semi synthetic and traditional engine oils.

Semi synthetic engine oil is a combination of fully synthetic and traditional engine oil. Semi synthetic offer many of the advantages of fully synthetic but at a lower cost.

WHICH ENGINE OIL SHOULD I USE
As a general guide, a typical modern family car will run just fine on semi synthetic engine oil. High performance engines are better suited to fully synthetic engine oils.

CAR SERVICE COST
The cost of servicing your car can vary significantly. A basic car service will be significantly cheaper than a full service

BASIC CAR SERVICE
A basic car service may include but not limited to:

Engine oil change
Air filter
Oil filter
Spark plug change

The above is a very basic service. Many garages are likely to include more in their basic service.

FULL CAR SERVICE
A full car service may include but not limited to:

• Engine oil change
• Transmission fluid
• Spark plug change
• Windscreen washer fluid
• Power steering fluid
• Fan belts
• Radiator Coolant
• Air filter
• Pollen filter
• PCV valve
• Windscreen wipers
• General lubrication
• Oil filter
• Battery check
• Brakes check
• Brake fluid check
• Tyre pressures / safety check
• Fuel filter
• Lights check
• Steering and suspension check
• Exhaust check

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing ABS Speed Sensor

Common signs include the ABS Light coming on, decreased stopping time, and less stability under icy or wet driving conditions.

The anti-lock brake (ABS) system uses sensors that send data to the ABS module which will activate it during wheel lock. These sensor mechanisms are installed at the wheel, and is usually made up of two components. There will be a reluctor wheel or tone ring seated on the axle which will spin with the wheel, and either a magnetic or hall effect sensor which works together to send data to the ABS control module. Over time, the reluctor wheel may become dirty or damaged to the point where it can no longer provide a consistent reading, or the magnetic/hall effect sensor may fail. When either of these components fail, the ABS system will not function properly and will require service.

Different cars will have different ABS sensor configurations. Older vehicles may have only one or two sensors on the entire vehicle, while most new ones will have one at each wheel. Individual sensors at each wheel allow for more precise readings and operation, however, it does leave the system prone to more problems. When an ABS sensor fails, there are usually a few warning signs that will warn you that there is a problem.

1. The ABS Light comes on

The most obvious sign of a problem with the ABS system is that the ABS Light will come on. The ABS Light is the equivalent of the Check Engine Light, except only for the ABS system. When the light is illuminated, this is usually the first sign that will be displayed indicating that there may be a problem with the ABS system, and perhaps an issue with one of the system’s sensors.

2. Brakes take longer to stop car

During heavy braking conditions the ABS system should automatically activate to aid in slowing down the vehicle, and traction loss and skidding should be minimal. While we should try to practice regular driving habits that avoid heavy braking situations, if you do notice that the vehicle is taking longer to stop under heavy braking situations, or is experiencing traction loss and skidding, then that may be an indicator of there being a problem with the system. The ABS system is typically made up of only a few components - the module and the sensors - so a problem in its operation will either be with the module or the sensors.

3. Less stability under icy or wet driving conditions

Over time, most drivers will become familiar with how their vehicle handles under certain conditions, including slippery conditions, such as driving on wet or icy roads. A properly functioning ABS system will minimize any sort of traction loss, especially under wet and icy conditions. If when driving under wet or icy roads you experience any sort of tire slipping or loss of traction for more than a brief moment when stopping or taking off, then the ABS system may not be functioning correctly. This is typically due to either a problem with the module, or more likely, a problem with the sensors.

If your ABS Light comes on, or you suspect you may be having a problem with one or more of the ABS sensors, have the vehicle inspected by a professional technician, such as one from AutoFactorNG, to determine the exact nature of the problem, and if any repairs need to be made. They will also be able to replace your ABS Sensors if needed.

Curled from http://ow.ly/MOEp304stfQ

Car lights & Wipers: The Keys to See and Be Seen

Car Lights and wiper blades play a major role in safe driving, as the chance of an accident increases if you can’t see or be seen.

Lights are normal wear items that require periodic inspection and replacement. The lighting system provides nighttime visibility; signals and alerts other drivers; and supplies light for viewing instruments and the vehicle’s interior. In addition to replacing dimming, rapidly blinking and non-functioning lights, the following tips can help keep you safe.

⦁ Ensure headlights, tail lights and signal lights are clean. External dirt and debris can dim operational lights from being seen by others.

⦁ Make sure that your headlights are properly aimed. Misaimed headlights blind other drivers and reduce your ability to see the road.

⦁ If there is any doubt on whether or not your headlights should be on, turn them on. Lights not only help you see better in early twilight, they also make it easier for other drivers to see you.

The wiper system keeps excessive water, snow and dirt from building up on the windshield, maintaining clear visibility. Many factors can accelerate the replacement interval of wipers, including operating conditions, frequency of use, material and type of wipers and sunny weather.

In fact, wiper blades can deteriorate faster and need more frequent replacement in desert states. Don’t forget to check the rear window wiper blade too!

For your Genuine Car Parts, Visit www.autofactorng.com We will not only give you a Guarantee on our Genuine Car parts, we have certified Auto-Technicians who are readily available to help you with your car troubles.

Also, you can Join us on Tuesdays and Thursdays on Twitter for our Online Car Diagnostics Program from 10:00am –  01:00pm. This Service is absolutely FREE. Don’t let your Local mechanic fool you with jargons. Let’s put you through the dynamics of your car!

Fake Parts are Cheap but Genuine Parts are Best for your Vehicle

Counterfeit parts are running rampant in the auto parts industry.  Counterfeit parts risk lives because they are generally poorly produced and made using sub-standard materials. Counterfeiters go as far as using legitimate companies’ logos and packaging.

Brake failure, cracked wheels, catastrophic engine damage and misfiring airbags – these are just some of the serious issues that can stem from the use of counterfeit parts in vehicle repairs and services.

As a car owner it is important to purchase standard and high quality parts for your vehicle to reduce the risks of car troubles. OEM Standard parts are Original Equipment Manufacturer parts.This means it is a vehicle part made by the car manufacturer.

OEM Standard parts tend to be more expensive than counterfeit products, but are easier to choose and usually are backed by a warranty.

Beware! Many of these fake parts have caused numerous car fires and fatalities. So you ask, how can i know if the part I'm buying is for real or a fake?

Here are a few way to spot fake parts:
⦁ Inspect the packaging. Make sure it doesn’t look flimsy or have misspelled words.

⦁ If the price is too good to be true, it probably is.

⦁ Make sure the part number is listed. Many counterfeiters don’t list part numbers.

Some counterfeiters have become good enough to fool the experts – at least at first glance.  But they’re usually cutting so many corners that even a vigilant consumer can spot the difference.  It’s worth the extra time and effort and could save your engine, perhaps even your life.

Check out our website at www.autofactorng.com to shop for top quality OEM parts for all brands.

When should you change your wiper blades??

Did you know that driver’s vision is a factor in more than 40 percent of all vehicle crashes? While there are many factors outside of our control in driving during the rainy season, like water or slush splashing on the windshield from other traffic, maintaining wiper blades in good repair can provide the best visibility possible and is something cost-effective and easy to address.

But how do you know if your blades are in bad?

Many factors can contribute to wiper blade wear, including use, extended exposure to temperature extremes, ozone, road salt, oil and even automatic car washes
To avoid the risks of driving with limited visibility it is important to recognize the warning signs of wiper blade wear and damage.

Streaking

Visual inspection of the wiper blade reveals rubber that has hardened and/or cracked due to exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays, tree sap, and road tar, automotive chemicals like oil, brake fluid, coolant, and road grit. Bands of water remain after each wiping stroke.

Chattering

Extreme hot or cold temperatures or extended periods of non-use can cause blades to exhibit chatter. The blades may skip and vibrate. The characteristics to look for include a choppy wiping action or an overall performance set or curve to the blade rubber in one direction and smeared windshield appearance while wiping.

Worn Rubber
 When the wiping edge of the blade is no longer sharp, but rounded in shape or appearance, the wiper will smear the water across the windshield instead of clearing it off. This causes cloudy and impaired visibility.

 Squeaking

The old or worn rubber of the blade does not move quietly across the windshield.

Shop for Hybrid wiper blades, Flat beam wiper blades and many other car care, safety and accessories product on AutofactorNG.

Buy Genuine... Buy Confidence...